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The formula you are looking for is Watts = Amps x Volts.
To convert amperage to watts, you need to know the voltage, power factor, and the number of phases that you are working with. For a residential refrigerator this is single phase, an industrial refrigerator could be three phase.
Look at its nameplate. Divide its power rating by its voltage rating -this will tell you how much current flows when the refrigerator is running on its cooling cycle.
Probably about 450 watts. Since the primary use of power in a refrigerator is for a motor the watts it uses are less than the amps that pass through it. <<>> Assuming that the refrigerator uses 120 volts for a supply voltage, then W = A x V. 4.5 x 120 = 540 watts
Depends on what refrigerator you are interested in. They all have a label somewhere, usually in the refrigerator compartment that lists the current. My refrigerator has a rating of 11.6 Amps. This is not a consistent current, but would be when the compressor is running.
1 AMP
The formula you are looking for is Watts = Amps x Volts.
To convert amperage to watts, you need to know the voltage, power factor, and the number of phases that you are working with. For a residential refrigerator this is single phase, an industrial refrigerator could be three phase.
Not unless the wire going to the refrigerator outlet is AWG 10/2. If it is wired with 12/2 wire then you must use a 20 amp breaker. Using a 30 amp breaker is dangerous and a fire hazard.
For a standard size refrigerator, a dedicated 15 amp circuit is used.
Look at its nameplate. Divide its power rating by its voltage rating -this will tell you how much current flows when the refrigerator is running on its cooling cycle.
Probably about 450 watts. Since the primary use of power in a refrigerator is for a motor the watts it uses are less than the amps that pass through it. <<>> Assuming that the refrigerator uses 120 volts for a supply voltage, then W = A x V. 4.5 x 120 = 540 watts
You can wire the refrigerator on a dedicated 15 amp circuit using AWG #14 wire but, know that as of 2014 the refrigerator must be on a GFCI protected circuit that is readily accessible. As you will normally mount the outlet behind the refrigerator you would have to move the unit to reset the breaker if and when it tripped. I would wire the refrigerator on one of the 20 amp kitchen counter-top circuits that is GFCI protected. Now, my answer may be debatable but from how I read the NEC code you can wire it to one of the kitchen branch circuits as long as the refrigerator does not pull more than 16 amps. You might want to check with your local inspector to get his opinion as he is the one who will have the final say.
Depends on what refrigerator you are interested in. They all have a label somewhere, usually in the refrigerator compartment that lists the current. My refrigerator has a rating of 11.6 Amps. This is not a consistent current, but would be when the compressor is running.
In how many amps of current before blowing out. 2 amp 5 amp 10 amp 15 amp etc.
More information needed.
A 100 watt light bulb draws a little less than one amp. A refrigerator draws much more when compressor is running. The duty cycle of the light and refrigerator will ultimately determine which uses more power on a Kilowatt Hour basis.