You would need to specify the size of the heater
If it has the required pressure relief valve it cannot explode.
A high pressure will be able to push the coolants into the heater cores.
The water pressure when one turns on the hot water is lacking because the water is coming from one's water heater, which is at the same level as the faucet, whereas the pressure from the cold valve is coming directly from one's town's water tower, which is at a much greater elevation. Also, the water heater tank is only a few feet high, whereas the water holding cell in a water tower is several feet high. The potential energy of the water tower far exceeds that of one's hot water heater, thus the cold water flows out of the faucet with much more pressure.
If the water is dripping, I would replace it just to be safe. It doesn't cost much money.
Thermostat is not allowing the engine to warm up enough to produce heated coolant to the heater core. Heater control valve is faulty or not opening. Low coolant level; coolant level is insufficient to pump into the heater core. Blocked or damaged heater core. Start with the thermostat, that's very common. While you're at it, make sure the coolant level is up. After that, if you suspect a blocked heater core, try backflushing the heater core. Turn the heat on full to open the valve, then with the heater hoses removed, run water BACKWARDS through the heater core. As you remove the heater hoses. Don't use much water pressure, if you go over 15 PSI pressure you could blow the heater core and then you have real problems. Typical water pressure at a house is 50 to 120 PSI, so if you use your water hose make sure you control the pressure.
Which water tank, well water, cold storage or hot water heater tank.
A tankless water heater is much more efficient as it "flash" heats the water.
The water pressure in my house is about 140PSI. Which is definitely dangerous. It happens more often than you would think. What happens is a city will use water supply lines which are too small for the water requirements. Therefore, they have to increase the pressure. You wouldn't want a pressure relief valve, because then if the pressure was too high, it would just spray water everywhere to release the pressure. You would want a pressure regulator installed, which is what I am working on for my house right now. Just to let you know though, you may have to get a thermal expansion tank for your water heater if you don't have one. See, the new pressure regulators have a check valve in them, which prevents water from traveling back into the city pipes once it has gotten into your house. When your water heater heats the water, the air bubbles in it expand, which increases the water pressure, and will probably cause your pressure relief valve on your water heater to blow. You can get a cheap water pressure meter at any improvement store to check it out. 50-60 PSI is ok. I would say you could take it up to 70 or 80 PSI safely.
You mean flush the heater core. Disconnect the inlet and outlet hose going to the hearer core. Use a garden hose to flush it in both directions. Use extreme care not to apply too much water pressure or you can cause the heater core to leak. No more than 10 lbs of pressure.
The installation of a solar water heater will cost between $250-500.
None.
They have so much water inside that when it reaches boilng temperature it explodes.
You constantly need hot water