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here is my technique for setting the timing on the first try. no one tooth off and hope it works crap! do it right the first time. you will however have to reset the tension(very important) a few times to get it right. once all your gears and crank sprocket are in the right place(with cam lockers,bolts,ect...)

1. zip tie the timing belt on the front most cam gear(front head exhaust cam) at about 9-10 oclock as if it were a watch dial.

2. feed the belt thru the hydrolic tensioner and crank sprocket.

3. feed the tb up thru the tensioner pullys and up over the rear cam gear. this is where you have to watch the timing marks(dots & arrows) and even though the gears are set with lockers you can turn them slightly with a 17mm wrench. if the lobe on the tb looks like it is past its notch then make it go into the next one with a SLIGHT turn of the gear. lock the tb on the 4th cam gear(rear head exhaust cam) at 1-2 oclock with another zip tie. zip tie the 3rd cam at 9-10 oclock. marks should still be in place.

4. finish feeding the belt thru the water pump. keep it tight! pull it up to the 2nd cam gear(front head intake cam). cut the first zip tie while keeping tension on the belt with you left hand use your right to pull the tb over the front 2 cam gears, and if the lobe goes past its notch, AT ALL, make it go into the next with the 17mm. zip tie the tb at the first cam gear, in the same place as the first zip tie, you just cut off.

5. your still holding the belt from turning the crank sprocket with you left hand right? good. you can now turn the tensioner pully to take up the slack in the belt. tighten the set bolt(42lbs) we will set for good in a few more steps.

6. make sure all marks are still lined up, if so cut the zip ties, remove the lockers, adjust hydrolic tensioner so pin can still move in and out, don't remove it yet!

7. crank the crank pully clockwise and watch your timing marks go around to the tdc marks 2 times, check the pin can it still move freely. if not, re-set the tension. this part takes about 3-4 tries to figure out that when you set the bolt to the 42 ft lbs it tightens the belt a hair(thus tighning the pin. it can be snug on the tight but you should be able to wiggle the pin in and out a bit). once you get this far, with the pin still moving, wait an hour, crank it around one timing revolution and re-check everything.

8. does the pin still move freely(tight side of freely, not to tight!)? good, pull it out your done!

never re-use a hydrolic tensioner with more than 30k miles! i never would use a used one at all myself.

if you done have the timing belt tensioner setting tool you cvan use some needle nose plyers that have a 90 degree bend. they have them at most auto parts stores. ive heard of others using a fork with a few tongs bent/cut off. hope i helped you! Jason

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Q: How to set Timing on 95 Mitsubishi 3000gt non-turbo?
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