The system is ready to be charged
On a car's A/C system you should pull a vacuum to a -29 and it should hold for at least 30 minutes.
It's a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. There are several vacuum lines that operate the blend doors on the system. If there is a leak where the system will not hold vacuum, it will default to defrost automatically.
Because you have a vacuum leak in the system or your vacuum canister is leaking. When you accelerate the vacuum from the engine will drop. That will cause your system to loose vacuum and the floor/defrost door will go to its neutral position. To keep the vacuum up you have a canister that will hold vacuum. It must be air tight.
You may have a vacuum leak or a check valve isn't working in the HVAC system. When there is no vacuum in the system it defaults to defrost. Under load the engine vacuum drops to almost zero. Normally the HVAC system has a vacuum reservoir to maintain operation during this situation, but if there is a leak it cannot hold vacuum.
you will have to evacuate the refrigerant then have a vacuum pump hooked up to it and have it hold a vaccuum and then recharge the system
About 30 minutes
15 minutes
system isolated and the vacuum pump turned off.
Check for vacuum leak--either under dash or in engine compartment Check for bad vacuum motors under dash Defrost is the default position for this system There is a vacuum resovoir located behind your battery , it is for this condition. When you accel your engine doesn't produce vacuum due to the throttle plate being open so a resovoir is there to hold a vacuum reserve so that when there is low vacuum produced by the engine there will be reserve to hold the vacuum motor applied preventing the air from changing direction in your dash. When there is no vacuum the direction is at the defrost vents if you have a broken hose or no vacuum your ac would blow out the defrost all the time But since it happens when you accel it sounds like your vacuum resovoir is cracked thus not allowing it to hold a vacuum
To accomplish the same thing, no. Pulling a vacuum is how you perform your leak test on the system.. I suppose purging the system could expose a very large leak which probably would have already been detected prior to purging the system, but it's not going to work so well for the more subtle leaks which you may not hear or visually see if you try purging the system (such as a leak in the evaporator). With a vacuum test, the presence of leaks is determined by the ability (or lack of) the system to hold that vacuum. If it can't hold the vacuum, then you know you have a leak, and that's where you do the dye test or the halogen sniffer. Then there's the question of what exactly you intend to try purging the system with. Air is a no-go, unless you're in the mood to have to replace your accumulator or receiver-drier, whereas that wouldn't have to have been done if the system turns out not to have any leaks.
What sealed vacuum system are we talking about?