No, take the battery out and bring it to an auto part store and they can test it.
Chances are you drained your battery when your alternator failed to maintain your cars regular running functions. You should take the battery to your local auto parts store, they should be able to test it for free.
If the battery continues to go down even though the system is charging it normally indicates there is an amperage draw. to test it without any meters; disconnect the negative battery cable and observe when you touch the connector to the battery. If there is even the slightest spark, you have an amperage draw and that will run your battery down.
Why Batteries "Die"There could be many causes, but the most common causes include:Corrosion on the battery terminals and/or the battery cable terminal connector clamps which inhibits or totally blocks the flow of charging current.A charging system which is out of adjustment or defective [loose drive belt (s), defective alternator or generator, defective voltage regulator, damaged wiring, disconnected, loose, or corroded connectors and/or grounds, etc.].Battery is just plain "worn out"; has reached the end of it life span.
Generally when your light is flashing it is indicating that your battery is not charging properly. It usually means that your battery, alternator or alternator belt need replacing or adjusting. Easiest thing to check is your belt so you can start there, make sure it is not loose or frayed. Next, disconnect the battery terminal while your car is running, the alternator alone should be able to keep your car going. If the car DOESN'T stall then it is most likely that your battery that is no good. If the car DOES stall then your alternator is defective. To properly test your alternator with a voltage meter attach the ground to (+) positive probe to the main power feed on the alternator and attach the (-) negative probe to the (-) negative battery terminal or ground it on a piece of the car's frame. It should read somewhere around 10.0 - 15.0 amps. Anything less will be insufficient to turn the engine over. If none of these seem to be the problem then you have an electrical short somewhere between the battery and the alternator. ADDITIONALLY, i'd like to point out that many auto part stores will test your battery and/or alternator free of charge. So don't be afraid to stop there and ask for help.
Will it even attempt to engage the starter?. If not then the battery or charging system needs to be looked at.
If you are certain it is not a faulty battery or alternator problem, the next step is to find what is shorting out or drawing current with the ignition in the off position. Could be a number of things: Have you had aftermarket accessories installed (shift light/digital gauges/stereo/amplifier/car alarm/etc?) that would be where id start first, then use a simple circuit tester. Disconnect the battery, clip a lead on the + battery wire, any circuit that is drawing current will make the tester light up when you short the circuit/wire under the dash using the probe..this will only show you what can pull current when the ignition is off Hope this makes sense
In the alternator. Have to replace the Alternator.
Simple just disconnect the negative wire while your car is runing if car dies then alternator is bad and not doing any good to battery so alternator needs to be replaced. Answer 1If you have a major chain auto parts store nearby, it would be easier to go there as most of them have the proper test equipment and will simultaneously test the alternator, battery and related circuits for free. If you want to test it yourself, you will need a volt/ohmmeter [also called a VOM].With the VOM selector switch set to the 50 volt DC Scale, and the engine running, touch the negative [black] probe of the meter to the negative post of the battery [black cable attached], and the postitive probe [red] of the meter to the positive terminal [red cable attached] of the battery.Depending on the type of vehicle, charging system, and some other factors, the meter voltage reading will vary. However, the meter should read at least 13.5 DC volts minimum to about 16 volts maximum. If you have set the meter selector and connected the probes properly, and the indicated voltage is within this range, then the alternator is working properly.
If the alligator clip from the test light is attached to the negative post of the battery it will light up whenever the probe end touches a positively charged circuit and likewise if the alligator clip is attached to the positive terminal of the battery the test light will light up when the probe end touches a negatively charged circuit
If it is not keeping the battery charged then it is defective. Start the engine and connect a volt meter set on 20 Volts DC to the battery posts. Red probe to positive and black to negative. You should get a reading of from 13.5 to 16 volts. Any less or more and the alternator is defective.
More than likely. Get the clamp fixed! When going at speed, the clamp will vibrate, and will only be half re-charging the battery (the alternator re-charges it during operation). This means that when you slow down, you may not be getting any charge to it at all. Either that, or its just not making contact with the terminal when you have slowed down.
Start the engine and connect a volt meter set on 20 Volts DC to the battery posts. Red probe to positive and black to negative. You should get a reading of from 13.5 to 16 volts. Any less or more and the alternator is defective.