I assume the wire in question is the smaller blue wire. Yes it travels inside the car to the central electrics (fuse block) then to the instrument cluster. The cluster feed the battery light power and finds a ground through said wire at the alternator. when the alt starts charging, there is power on that wire from the altwhich doesn't let the bulb get ground and the light is out.
a circuit is a round wire that connects through a battery into a lightbulb
It is a device that converts mechanical energy to electrical energy on a car. It works by:the alternator creates an electric field by spinning a magnetic rotor with direct current inside stator windings. an ac voltage is developed and rectified dc. this voltage is compared to the battery voltage and determines the current through the rotor. if the battery voltage is lower than the alternator voltage, more current through the rotor increases the magnetic field and creates a larger alternator voltage. if the battery voltage is higher, less current through the rotor decreases the alternator voltage.
i would start by testing the battery , i have seen cases where the battery was good enough to start the vehicle but was causing the alternator to do all the work resulting in premature failure. my f150 went through a brand new ford alternator in 2 months .
This is an easy answer. The alternator is hooked (through wires blue and black) to the battery. So every time you start an engine the alternator kicks on and charges the battery. That's practically how it works. <><><> To add a bit to the above- an alternator produces an alternating electrical current (unlike a generator, which produces a direct current- DC vs AC) On modern cars, the alternator produces the current used to charge the battery, and operate electrical equipment on the car, such as lights, wipers, radio, etc.
If this connection is used, it is generally connected to the light in the dash that shows alternator fault (NOT the voltage gauge!) and then through the ignition switch to the positive battery terminal.
Suspect low battery reserve (almost dead), alternator may not be recharging battery either due to low battery level insuffucient to energize alternator field windings or alternator/wire fault probable causing low battery in first place. Battery volt meter drops because alternator not recharging, Flasher speeds up when load drops through flasher, engine stalls because insufficent reserve on battery to run engine electronics. If battery ok to start motor: then suspect fault/connection in power wire to engine bay electronics or alternator. initial starting point from my diagnostic point of view
Some vehicles have an external voltage regulator which also controls the warning lamp circuit, some vehicles have a warning lamp relay and others may operate through a computor, all of which require a signal from the alternator. You either have a faulty regulator/relay/computor, A broken signal wire from alternator, alternator is incorrectly wired or a faulty/incorrect type of alternator
Likely your belt(s) are slipping when they get wet and are not delivering power from the alternator to the battery. Check your belts or tensioner.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY TERMINALS!!! The mounting blots that go through the alternator need to be removed (some are star bits) and then remove the two electrical connections, one a clip-on one a bolt-on grounding wire. Be careful NOT to get shocked or short out your new alternator, the battery terminals must be disconnected.
I just went through this with my Windstar - stopped by my favorite Autozone and they did a pretty thorough electrical test, including the alternator and battery. Most of the auto parts stores offer free testing. Easiest thing to do is remove the positive connection to your battery if you Freestar stalls....Alternator is no good(just happened to me)
Usually underneath the battery tray. If not the sensor, then check the wiring back through the fender for cuts etc. If not that, check battery and alternator.
Disconnect the negative cable on the battery. Loosen the tensioner for the accessory belt for the alternator and remove the belt. Remove the two long bolts that are holding the alternator in the bracket. Do not let the alternator fall and tear the wires. Support it as it comes loose so you can reach the wires. Remove the main battery wire off of the single power connection on the back of the alternator. Remove the electrical connector that is the field connection from the back of the alternator and put it out of the way. Install the new alternator with the bottom bolt first. Rotate the alternator upward and insert the top bolt through the bracket and alternator and then tighten top and bottom bolts. Install the main power wire to the back of the alternator followed by the field wiring harness connector. Install the accessory belt and tighten. Check the battery before starting and make sure it is not to low. If it is, charge the battery before starting so as not to damage the new alternator. An alternator is not designed to run at full capability for extended periods. This will overheat the new alternator, possibly causing damage. If the car does not have a voltmeter gauge then it is a good idea to use a voltmeter and check across the battery with the car running. There should be a charge of 14.5 going into the battery. Full article: http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4829335_removing-alternator-pontiac-sunfire.html
that is the drive assembly which the power provided by the rotation of the crankshaft and through the engine drive belt causes the rotaion of the alternator which produces the electrical power to the auto and battery charging system
With just the key on, the alternator does nothing. With the engine running, a belt drives a pulley on the alternator. Giving the simplest explanation, that pulley is connected to a rod which turns magnets inside a field of copper wiring. That produces electricity. That electricity is alternating current. So it then goes through a diode which converts it to direct current. Then it goes through the voltage regulator, which ensures that your car's battery doesn't get cooked from overcharging. The alternator keeps the battery charged, and that supplies electrical power to vehicle systems.
If you charge the battery and than let it run by itself, the battery will begin to slowly drain without recharging itself as you press the gas. I'm going through what I believe is a busted alternator right now. Give me an hour and I'll tell you how it went.
When alternator went out, it could have taken out a fuse if the alternator shorted. The main battery cable to the alternator is not fused, but in your panel you should find an ALT fuse. most alternators have two to three small wires that are in a pigtail that plug into the alternator. these small wires are fused. if your car can't pass current through an open fuse. then there is nothing to essentially tell the alternator to turn on. another thing to check, is whether the battery light comes on. if you turn the key to the forward position, without trying to strart the engine, your prestart lights should all light up. this is a system precheck before the engine starts. the battery light should come on at this point. if the light doesn't come on that is an indication of a fuse being blown. in a lot of vehicles, from the seventies to the late nineties, the charge light, or battery light has to work in order for the alternator to work. if the bulb in the dash(which is behind the battery light) burns out, your alternator will not receive power to turn on and work. again, newer vehicles do not have a light circuit that it relies on for the alternator to function. keep in mind, your battery light should have come on and been on the entire time the old alternator was in the vehicle. if it wasn't on, then this is something to pursue further.
Nothing is wrong. One cable runs from the alternator directly to the ungrounded post of the battery, without any need of going through the key switch. For this wire to become "dead", one of the cables to the battery must be unhooked.
Inside of a AA battery is something called an electrolyte, which is a conductive substance that connects to the battery's anode and cathode, thus allowing current to flow through it. An electrolyte can be a paste, liquid, or gel.
It has a Generator that suppllies power to the ignition system through the Battery. New vehicles have an Alternator that makes it's own power once it is running directly to the ignition system.
You have something that is ON and drawing current. Suspect, glove box light, trunk light, hood light, brake light, or a possibly stuck power window switch. this is what we thought when we had the same problem, it turns out that our alternator is ran through our computer, and the computer isn't sinding a signal to the alternator to charge the battery, i had to replace my computer and get another battery, i wouldn't drive very much if you have this problem until you get it fixed, otherwise your going to fry the battery and alternater all over again.
An alternator will ground out when the normally insulated line that charges the battery( after going through the regulator system) makes contact with the alternator shell. This sends any voltage to the surrounding case and to any surrounding metal thusly grounding the voltage out. This can occur due to vibration or excessive moisture to the casing.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.Raise and safely support the vehicle.Remove the right-hand halfshaft (axle)From the rear of the alternator, depress the lock tabs on the wiring terminals and pull the terminals straight off. Mark the location of the wires prior to removal so they can be reinstalled in their original positions.Loosen the alternator adjustment and through bolts to allow the alternator to pivot. Remove the alternator drive belt.Remove the alternator adjustment bracket, lock bolt and through bolt.Hold the alternator to prevent it from falling and remove it through the space left from the removed halfshaft.To install:Position the alternator and loosely install the mounting and adjustment bolts.Install the drive belt and adjust the tension Tighten the through bolt to 27-38 ft. lbs. (37-52 Nm) and the adjusting bolt to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-25 Nm).Connect the wiring terminals at the rear of the alternator.Install the right-hand halfshaft.Lower the vehicle. Connect the negative battery cable.
no the charging system consists of the battery and the alternator. the battery being the starting point of the system. the battery provides the initial power. the alternator then keeps your battery charged while the motor is running. the starter gets its power from the battery but has no relation to the charging system. the starter has but only one function and that is to power up upon initial start up and turn your motor over to get it running. hope that helps you out a little bit.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner assembly if necessary. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the alternator. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt or nut and through-bolt and remove the alternator belt. Remove the alternator adjusting bolt or nut and through-bolt and remove the alternator. If necessary, remove the mount bracket bolts and the upper and lower mount brackets. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure: put the alternator in place and re-bolt mount bracket (if removed). Engage the electrical connectors and install the air cleaner assembly (if removed).