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Yes, it is possible for an oil-filled drum to rust inside if the interior of the drum is exposed to moisture. Rust can form on the metal surface when water and oxygen come into contact with it, leading to corrosion over time. Proper maintenance and storage can help prevent rusting.

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AnswerBot

1y ago

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I have a grinding noise coming from the right rear of my 05 civic ex and was told that it is caused by rust build up from salt getting between the drum and shield how do you fix this?

If the noise is from a rust build up, then remove the drum. using a wire brush, scrape all of the rust from the drum and the shield, then reinstall the drum.


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To remove the rear drum brakes on a Mk6 Fiesta, start by safely lifting the vehicle and securing it on jack stands. Remove the wheel, then locate the drum's retaining screws and remove them if present. Gently tap the drum with a hammer to loosen it, as it may be stuck due to rust or debris. Finally, pull the drum straight off the hub, taking care not to damage the brake components inside.


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How do you remove a rear brake drum from the flange on a 1994 Plymouth Sundance Duster?

I assume that like many older cars that have not had the drum off in like forever, the drum is seriously rusted to the flange. It will takes lots of patience, penetrating oil (don't get it inside the brake shoe area, it may deteriorate the boots on the cyclinder), a hammer and a puller that can span the drum. Usually this last item is hard to find, so I usually use two or three large screwdrivers to wedge between the backing plate and the edge of the drum. Be careful with this screwdriver approach because it's easy to distort the backing plate. Apply force to the drum, apply penetrating oil to the center of the hub, apply a hammer to the center of the hub. The idea is to break loose the rust. Before you start this wedging and hammering, though, clear away as much rust as possible from the area where the drum will want slide off. A file or screwdriver blade helps. There's no use trying to slide the drum over rust that's visible and easily accessible. Before you start, see if you can check the grease seal on the back of the stub axle assembly. If the seal has a hole in it from rust, you get to replace the stub axle also, so maybe the best thing is to see if you can remove the parking brake cable, the hydraulic cable, and expect to replace the drum and cylinder along with the brake shoes. You'll probably have to replace the drum anyway, so smash it with a big hammer. The bolts that hold the stub shaft to the control arm are probably not accessible from outside the drum. Sorry about your luck. Sometimes some gentle heat from a torch will loosen the rust, but don't do that if you've use penetrating oil unless you like to see flames. The penetrating oil approach will take a long time, lot's of moving the wedges and lots of hammering. But, eventually you'll see the drum start to move.