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I'm not entirely sure what is meant by "tacky" but if it means in poor taste or socially unacceptable then the answer is emphatically; "No"

For many people in France the midday meal is the main meal of the day and wine would certainly be served and drunk. All everyday restaurants offer lunch at a reasonable price (around my part of France that amounts to 12 euros) which often includes a half bottle of wine)

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