Pretty much. You will never get it all off though. The problem isn't the sheen, you can't apply latex paint over oil based paint. Sand what you can and make sure that the glossy finish is roughed up. Go to a real paint store (not Lowes or Home Depot because they don't even carry interior oil based paint) and buy a quality oil based paint and "liquid sander". A real paint store will know what it is and can probably give you more insight as to how to apply it and finish prepping the surface. Multiple coats of paint may be necessary to smooth surface. Over time it will cure and harden giving you the best adhesion possible at this point.
There are flat paints that are made to go over semigloss paint. Many inexpensive flat paints will peel almost immediately when laid over semigloss. The most common solution is to roughen the surface of the semigloss (sandpaper, sandblasting, steel wool, or trisodium phosphate). The actual requirement is to remove alkyds which migrate to the surface of some semigloss and gloss paints. The alkyds make it impossible for latex or acrylic to bond to the surface underneath. You also have to remove buildup of dirt, mildew, etc. Most primers are suitable for recoating semigloss. Read the label. A layer of primer followed by your flat paint is generally the best solution if the surface is relatively clean. Benjamin Moore Fresh Start interior / exterior acrylic primer is one example of a good primer for this application.
Often, poly will not adhere due to contaminants on the surface. Remove all of the loose coating, sand the surface, brush off the surface with a brush, then remove the remainder the dust with a tack cloth.
Depending on what the wood is and how it has been processed, there may be a semi finished surface on it. Sanding lightly will open the pores and allow the stain to absorb more evenly. Will also remove any oil from your hands that may be on the surface.
Your answer will depend on two things. 1) where the closet door is. - If the door is in a low traffic area, such as an adult's bedroom, a guest room, or such an eggshell finish is great. If by chance the door gets a smudge of dirt on it you can wipe it with a damp cloth to remove the dirt, but scrubbing it will damage the surface. - If the door is in a high traffic area, such as a main entrance, mud room, or child's bedroom you may find the semigloss a better bet as you can give the surface repeated cleanings without effecting the surface. 2) your personal aesthetics - If you want a seamless look from walls to doors, or just don't like the look of a semigloss and are willing to either repaint a bit more frequently or be extra careful when you clean then by all means use eggshell. - If the thought of a scuff showing gives your the shivers then semigloss is your way to go. May I suggest a third alternative? Most paint manufacturers now make at least one sometimes two or three, gloss levels between eggshell and semigloss. Pearl, and /or satin are the most common. As gloss factors go up, the hardness of the surface increases, so these would allow some what more cleaning potential and still keep the "shine" down.
400 grit sandpaper, before sanding melamine wash the surface with TSP soap and the rinse with water to remove any TSP residue
There are flat paints that are made to go over semigloss paint. Many inexpensive flat paints will peel almost immediately when laid over semigloss. The most common solution is to roughen the surface of the semigloss (sandpaper, sandblasting, steel wool, or trisodium phosphate). The actual requirement is to remove alkyds which migrate to the surface of some semigloss and gloss paints. The alkyds make it impossible for latex or acrylic to bond to the surface underneath. You also have to remove buildup of dirt, mildew, etc. Most primers are suitable for recoating semigloss. Read the label. A layer of primer followed by your flat paint is generally the best solution if the surface is relatively clean. Benjamin Moore Fresh Start interior / exterior acrylic primer is one example of a good primer for this application.
Surface conditioning is a process used to prepare or finish a material's surface before applying a coating, painting, or treatment. It involves techniques such as cleaning, sanding, or chemical treatments to improve adhesion, remove contaminants, or modify the surface for a specific purpose.
Often, poly will not adhere due to contaminants on the surface. Remove all of the loose coating, sand the surface, brush off the surface with a brush, then remove the remainder the dust with a tack cloth.
A sandblaster or sanding disc
Depending on what the wood is and how it has been processed, there may be a semi finished surface on it. Sanding lightly will open the pores and allow the stain to absorb more evenly. Will also remove any oil from your hands that may be on the surface.
Your answer will depend on two things. 1) where the closet door is. - If the door is in a low traffic area, such as an adult's bedroom, a guest room, or such an eggshell finish is great. If by chance the door gets a smudge of dirt on it you can wipe it with a damp cloth to remove the dirt, but scrubbing it will damage the surface. - If the door is in a high traffic area, such as a main entrance, mud room, or child's bedroom you may find the semigloss a better bet as you can give the surface repeated cleanings without effecting the surface. 2) your personal aesthetics - If you want a seamless look from walls to doors, or just don't like the look of a semigloss and are willing to either repaint a bit more frequently or be extra careful when you clean then by all means use eggshell. - If the thought of a scuff showing gives your the shivers then semigloss is your way to go. May I suggest a third alternative? Most paint manufacturers now make at least one sometimes two or three, gloss levels between eggshell and semigloss. Pearl, and /or satin are the most common. As gloss factors go up, the hardness of the surface increases, so these would allow some what more cleaning potential and still keep the "shine" down.
400 grit sandpaper, before sanding melamine wash the surface with TSP soap and the rinse with water to remove any TSP residue
Paint stripper. Works for both metal and wood for a car sand otherwise surface contaminants will take longer to remove than sanding painting combined.
Yes. You want to ensure to lightly sand the surface to remove the gloss before applying a low sheen over a high sheen. This ensures to provide a better bond to the substrate. Don't forget to clean the surface well after sanding.
Wet sanding may remove some glues in someconditions. However I've found dry sanding more effective with most adhesives. It depends very much on the exact 'glue' in use here.
Surface scratches can be removed from hardwood floors by lightly sanding area, and restaining. A deep gouge is best left for the resurfacing professional. The gouged planks maybe in need of replacement.
The best way to remove luminated paint from your taillights is by sanding them smooth.