Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
You live in a mobile home, or older house? I live in a doublewide, and my dryer breakers are 30amp, and the water heater breakers are 20, both 220V lines, shared. The only safe way to answer this is to have an electrician look at your setup and determine if your wiring is capable for allowing a larger (bridge) to be installed. If they are tripping on a regular basis, it may be because you installed a new water heater that requires more current than what the breaker can handle, or a new dryer. The data labels that come with these units/appliances list the energy requirements needed to operate them. But an electrician will be able to tell you for sure. 15 amp breakers are usually feeding #14 wire. 20 amp breakers requires at least #12 wire.
Yes you can... have one and plugged into regular wall plug (110v) in USA.
10/3 will be fine if its not more than 75 feet Assuming they draw 30A or less, yes.
The USA Asko combo series runs on 110V, which is unusual for a clothes dryer. A USA dryer usually runs on 220V and has its own dedicated circuit breaker, but the Asko can run on a standard household outlet which probably shares a breaker with other outlets in the house. A clothes dryer takes a lot of current. According to the specs on most Asko combos I looked at online, your unit probably uses close to the maximum current your breaker can handle. If you are using other electrical devices at the same time, you will blow the circuit. It may even be the use of overhead lighting if it shares the same breaker. One more thing on Asko: According to many of the online reviews, the 110V combos have a tendancy to have overheating problems in the wiring when using both washer and dryer simultaneously. I would suspect that this is due to not cleaning the lint screens, so be diligent. A dirty lint screen causes the dryer to work extra hard and draw more current.
You can purchase a Maytag Neptune washer at online shops like Amazon. Furthermore you can buy a Maytage Neptune washer at the official website of Maytage.
If the dryer itself already includes a socket outlet that was designed to power a stackable washer then you should have no problem as long as the home's Dryer Circuit, and its breakers, can support the extra Kilowatts of power which the washer will take.To your question "Is there an adapter that would allow for separate use of the washer in its own outlet" the answer is No.Even if the stackable washer is mounted on top of the dryer it may still be possible to plug the washer into the existing, but separate, socket outlet that is intended to power a washer. If you cannot do that then it is best that you call in a licensed electrician to advise you.IF YOU NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND always use a meter or voltage indicator to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
Not a good idea in general. There is a large chance that you will trip what I expect is a 20 A breaker controlling the circuit. It may seem to work under some circumstances, but if the refrigerator compressor kicks in while the washer motor is demanding a surge current on motor start-up the breaker will likely trip.
The washer pump has probably failed or is plugged with dirt.
In home installations, the breakers will be found in the service distribution panel. In some homes this distribution is found in the basement. In ranch type homes, slab on grade, the distribution panel will be found in the utility room that houses the washer and dryer.
You can find the wiper and washer circuit breaker at most large retail stores. You can also find the circuit breaker at many local hardware stores.
R/window wiper and washer are two separate things. Washer is simply a pump that squirts fluid onto window. First, have you checked the washer fluid level? How about the fuse? When you push the washer button can you hear the pump running? If not, possible bad pump, fuse or button. If so, maybe the pump is clogged or fluid delivery tube is plugged or disconnected. Hope that helps.
No , 1996 was the last model year that there was a separate washer fluid reservoir for the liftgate in the Ford Explorer
Possible plugged pump.
Could be anything at fault. Unplug the compressor and try using your washer. If it works, then you have a fault with your compressor. If it still doesn't work, do what should have been done in the first place: call an electrician.
There is no separate washer fluid reservoir for the rear washer. It all works out of the front reservoir.
They might be plugged with dirt, etc..
Automotive window washer systems are self priming. Assuming the reservoir is full, you may have a bad pump, cracked/pinched hoses or plugged nozzles.