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It sounds as though you had the hot wire in your fan itself or in the fan ceiling box short out. Not good. The wire is likely burnt in two or nearly. This often happens if a wire gets pinched during installation. The wire gets mechanically damaged and then it's just a matter of time before it shorts out. Unless you're qualified, ask a qualified electrician to repair it. If If you can't afford an electrician or don't know one who'll do it for cheap or free, then make sure the circuit breaker is off to the circuit. Then take the fan out of the ceiling box, and look for the damaged or loose wire and repair it.

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Q: My light which has 4 candleabra bulbs made a loud popping sound and then blew out and the ceiling fan with that same light also stopped working when this happened and I am wondering why?
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Can a wire be wrapped around a screw clockwise or counter clockwise?

Well, it CAN be wrapped either way, but because standard screws tighten when turned clockwise:if the wire is wrapped around the screw clockwise tightening the screw will pull the wire tighter around the screwif the wire is wrapped around the screw counterclockwise tightening the screw will push the wire away from the screw making it loose and maybe even popping the wire out from under the screwSo, if you want the wire to stay secure on the screw only wrap it clockwise!


How can I find a short in my wiring that keeps popping the breaker?

The first thing to do would be to unplug everything that might be plugged into that circuit. It might be an external device that is tripping the breaker. If you know an electrician see if he will help you as thing can get complicated with this type of troubleshooting.Usually the wiring in the wall does not fault unless someone has driven a screw or nail into it. The fault will be in the junction box so look for burn marks inside the junction boxes. It could be as simple as a ground wire touching the "hot" terminal of a switch or plug that has just be changed out for a new one. If there was some DIY work done on that circuit, check that part of the circuit out first.The very first thing to do is to turn the breaker off, remove the electrical circuit from the breaker that is tripping and then turn the breaker back on to determine that it is not a faulty breaker. With the circuit wire removed from the breaker, the breaker should not trip. If it does change the breaker out for a new one.The second part of trouble shooting the circuit is going to entail turning the breaker on and off with exposed wiring open at junction boxes. If you are not confident that you can do this, hire an electrician. Trouble shooting this type of electrical fault is time consuming. I like to determine where the middle of the circuit is and open that junction box first. This will let you know if the fault is upstream or downstream from this junction box.Once you determine approximately where the middle junction box of the circuit is, it has to be opened and the wires removed from the device that is located in the box. Make a detailed diagram of how the device is wired into the circuit and what wires are spliced together in the back of the box that you are working on so that the box can be reconnected the same as before you took it apart. Once the wires are all seperated from each other, turn the breaker on and see if the breaker trips off.If it does not then the fault is downstream from this box. Put the wiring back together the same as it was and move on to the next box downstream and do the same procedureon that junction box. If the breaker trips then the wiring has a fault between the breaker and the box you chose to open the circuit at. Again put the wiring back together the same as it was and move on to the next box upstream and do the same procedure on that junction box. Continue with this same type of procedure until you find out what junction box connection is tripping the breaker.


How do you wire a 110 outlet from a 110 light switch?

I assume that both the light switch and the outlet are already installed. First, look at the visible portion of the switch carefully. Does it say "Off" and "On"? If not, you have a 3-way switch, and you should stop here because these instructions will not work for a 3-way switch. Now, identify all devices that are operated by this switch. Presumably, you at least have an overhead light on the circuit. Identify the breaker that controls this circuit and turn it OFF. Now you need to identify the LAST device on this circuit. To do so, one device at a time, remove each device from its box (but do not disconnect the wires). The last device will have only one cable (sheathed bundle of 3-4 wires) coming into the box (any devices between the switch and the last device will have two cables coming into the box). Now, purchase enough cable to stretch from the last device to the outlet you want connected to the switch. Remember that this cable will have to run across ceiling joists, wall studs, etc., rather than in a straight line. The new cable should be the same gauge and type as the existing wiring. Purchase 3-4 feet more than you need. You will also need wire nuts (the standard yellow nuts is the size you will most likely need, but it won't hurt to buy a variety pack), electrical tape, wire cutters, a utility knife, wire strippers, and cable staples (U-shaped nails) Go to a place where you can access the BACK side of the box that houses the last device on your circuit (if this is an overhead light, that will be in your attic; if it's a wall outlet, you're pretty much screwed.) Punch out an unused hole in the back of this box and feed at least six inches of cable through that hole. Staple the cable to a ceiling joist or other sturdy frame member as close as possible to the box. If you are lucky, there will already be a hole in the top plate, with a different cable running down to the outlet. If not, you're going to have to drill your own hole, and take a chance of electrocuting yourself and/or shorting out your whole house, if there is another cable running along the underside of this top plate. Once the hole is drilled, feed the cable down through that hole as far as you can. Now, identify the circuit that controls the outlet and turn the breaker off. Take the cover plate off of the outlet, then unscrew the outlet from the box and pull it out of the box. Again, you need to identify how many cables are coming into that box. If there is only one cable, disconnect all wires from the outlet and cap them with a small wire nut (grey will probably work best) and tape them up with electrical tape. If there are two cables, you will need to disconnect all wire and match them up - black to black, white to white, ground to ground - and connect each matched pair with yellow wire nuts and tape them up. This will remove the outlet from its previous circuit, and you can now turn that breaker back on. Now comes the hard part. You need to somehow take the cable end you fed down through the top plate and feed it into the back of the outlet box. If the box isn't nailed to a stud, you can just pull it out, and it will be much easier. Otherwise, this task will be be very near impossible. You might try bending a coat hanger straight, then bending the last inch back into a U shape, then trying to fish inside the wall for the cable end. But even if you can catch it, you have to pull it through a small hole in the back of your box, and that cable isn't very flexible. You may end up having to cut a section of your drywall out and replace it later. Once you get the new cable coming into your box, trim the end to 6 inches, then cut the sheathing off with a utility knife, being careful not to cut the insulation around the individual wires. Separate the black, white, and ground wires and strip the last inch or so of insulation from the black and white wires. Bend the last inch of all three wires into a U shape. Hook this U-bend around the connection screws as follows: Black wire to one of the two brass screws on the right side of the outlet, white wire to one of the two silver screws on the left side of the outlet, and ground wire to the green screw at the bottom of the outlet. (It doesn't matter which of the two brass screws or which of the two silver screws you use, as long as the black wire is connected to brass screw and the white wire to a silver screw.) Now go back to the front side (not in your attic) of the box for your overhead light (or whatever you determined to be the last device on your switched circuit. You will have the new cable sticking out of that box, as well as the existing connection from your circuit to the device. These connection will be as follows: one circuit black wire connected to one or more black wires going to the device (if the device is a ceiling fan, and it has a light kit attached, there may also be a blue wire attached to the black wires); one circuit white wire connected to one or more white wires going to the device; and one circuit ground wire connected to a bare or green wire, which in turn is connected to either a metal part of the device or a grounding screw inside the box. You will need to remove the tape and wire nuts from the black wire connection and the white wire connection. Then add the new black wire from your new cable to the existing black (and blue, if applicable) wires and connect them all together with a yellow wire nut. Then add the new white wire from your cable to the existing white wires and connect them all together using a yellow wire nut. Tape up both connections with electrical tape. Then twist the new ground wire around the existing bare ground wire to complete the ground connection. Replace your device, turn the breaker back on, and check everything.


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