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Series1935E what does M8215 mean after the 1935E on the one dollar bill silver certificate with a blue seal?


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2008-03-22 22:32:51
2008-03-22 22:32:51

It's a number indicating which plate was used to print the bill.

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In average circulated condition, it's worth about $1.50

I have a 1935e circulated silver certificate with a double die error on the back of it what value does it have.

Its worth about $5 in uncirculated condition, but if it has folds or rips about $2.

Depends on condition but if has been circulated, it is only worth about $1.25.

All 1935-E Silver Certificates were printed without the words "IN GOD WE TRUST" ... this was not added until Series 1935-G. In circulated condition, it's worth about $2.00 A nice crisp uncirculated one is worth about $5.00

you would need to give the denomination And take a second look at the bill. By 1935 seal colors were standardized and only U.S. Notes used red seals. Silver certificates had blue seals.

All Series 1935-E Silver Certificates were printed without the IN GOD WE TRUST on the back -- this is normal for those notes. This motto was not added until 1935-G In circulated condition, it's worth about $2.00 A nice Crisp Uncirculated one is worth about $5.00

Please see the link below. The tear and folds put the bill in the lowest price category, I'm afraid. K8134 is a printing-plate number and has no effect on the bill's value.

I doubt if any series of paper money has been produced 100% error-free, and there are no errors that are specific to a single series.

All US bills from the 1920s onward carry a "series" date but not the actual printing date. The series date is in roughly the same place on all bills, normally to the right of the portrait. Determining roughly when a $1 silver certificate was printed can be slightly difficult. Up till the 1970s, the Treasury tended to change series dates only when a bill was redesigned, and the 1935 series used the same design from its introduction until it was discontinued some thirty years later! Here's a list of approximate printing dates, based on the letter next to the year: 1935, 1935A : 01/1935 - 07/1945 1935B : 07/1945 - 07/1946 1935C : 07/1946 - 05/1949 1935D : 06/1949 - 01/1953 1935E : 01/1953 - 07/1957 1935F, 1957 : 07/1957 - 01/1961 1935G, 1957 A : 01/1961 - 04/1962 1935H, 1957B 01/1963 - 03/1965

The 1935 series of blue-seal $1 silver certificates was actually printed until the mid-1960s without a change in date, so there are many varieties to choose from. Check for a small letter next to the date. That's the "series letter" and helps determine when it was actually printed. Despite their age, many 1935 silver certificates remain common among collectors and don't command a huge premium. Auction values as of 09/2009: 1935: circulated, $4.-$7.; uncirculated $18.+ 1935A: $2.-$3.; $18.+ 1935B, C, or D: $2.25-$3.; $13.+ 1935E, F: $1.50; $7.+ 1935G without "In God We Trust" on the back: $2.25-$3.; $10.+ 1935G with "In God We Trust" on the back: $2.25-$3.; $10.+ 1935H: $1.50; $7.+

The star in the serial number indicates that the bill is a replacement for a regular series bill which didn't pass quality control when printed. There are many error bills available that were misprinted, folded, mis-inked, etc. If those bills had been detected before release they would have been replaced with a star bill. The serial number of the star bill is not in series with the bill that it replaces. Although some strive to collect star bills, there is no particular numismatic value to them except as my be derived from an unusual serial number or some other quirk. For instance, an error on a star bill would be a real find since it is hand selected to replace a damaged bill.

Dates on US paper money can be very difficult to interpret. Unlike dates on coins that (usually) indicate the calendar year in which they were minted, dates on bills are "series dates" that indicate the year that a particular design and/or signature combination was adopted. The series date remains the same until the Treasury Department determines that a new series is needed.Up till 1974 the general practice was to change a denomination's series date only when there was a major redesign. When a new Secretary of the Treasury or United States Treasurer took office during that series, a small letter would be added next to the date.Because the 1935 series of $1 bills was never redesigned the Treasury kept incrementing the letter every time a new official was appointed. The rather absurd result was that bills printed as late as the mid-1960s still carried a 1935 date while the series letter increased to H. The approximate issue dates are as follows, and shows that your 1935E bill was in fact printed during Ms. Priest's tenure.plain/A: 01/1934-07/1945B: 07/1945-07/1946C: 07/1946-05/1949D: 06/1949-01/1953E: 01/1953-07/1957F: 07/1957-01/1961G: 01/1961-04/1962H: 01/1963-03/1965In response to that situation the policy was changed in 1974 so that a new series would start when either a new design was adopted OR a new Secretary of the Treasury took office. The letter would increment only when or if a new Treasurer was appointed during a given series. If you check the bills in your wallet you'll see that changes in series dates are now much more frequent and series letters rarely go beyond A or B.

B - JanL - FebA - MarC - AprK - MayP - JunO - JulW - AugD - SepE - OctR - NovX - DecM - 1921N - 1922P - 1923R - 1924S - 1925T - 1926U - 1927W - 1928X - 1929Y - 1930Z - 1931A - 1932B - 1933C - 1934D - 1935E - 1936F - 1937G - 1938H - 1939J - 1940K - 1941L - 1942MM - 1943NN - 1944PP - 1945RR - 1946SS - 1947TT - 1948UU - 1949WW - 1950XX - 1951YY - 1952ZZ - 1953A - 1954B - 1955C - 1956D - 1957E - 1958F - 1959G - 1960H - 1961J - 1962K - 1963L - 1964M - 1965N - 1966P - 1967R - 1968S - 1969T - 1970U - 1971W - 1972X - 1973Y - 1974Z - 1975I - 1976O - 1977Q - 1978V - 1979A - 1980B - 1981C - 1982D - 1983E - 1984F - 1985G - 1986H - 1987I - 1988J - 1989K - 1990L - 1991M - 1992N - 1993O - 1994P - 1995Q - 1996R - 1997S - 1998T - 1999 (*)U - 2000 (*)V - 2001 (*)W - 2002X - 2003Y - 2004Z - 2005A - 2006B - 2007C - 2008D - 2009E - 2010F - 2011G - 2012Using barrel codes (such as those listed above) to date the manufacture are reliable on Remington rifles, as the company rarely changed barrels on a customer's rifle.Using these barrel codes to date a shotgun is somewhat unreliable, as shotgun barrels are often interchanged at random. One needs to be sure that the barrel is original to the gun before trusting the Barrel Code listing, above.(*) On 8/9/99, stopped stamping the barrels with the date code. They continued to mark the date code on the end flap of the shipping box. They resumed stamping the date code on the barrel on 10/1/01.

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