the pull of the moon's gravity on the ocean.
The speed of a wave does not directly affect its height. The height of a wave is influenced by factors such as wind speed, duration, and distance over which it blows. The speed of a wave refers to how fast it travels, while height is determined by other variables.
Factors that can lead to an increase in the height of a wave include stronger winds over a larger area, a longer duration of wind blowing in a consistent direction, and an interaction with ocean currents or shallow water areas that can amplify wave height. Additionally, the shape and steepness of the seafloor can also affect wave height.
The distance between the top and bottom of a wave in the ocean is called the wave height. Wave height can vary depending on the strength of the wave and environmental factors, but it is typically measured from the trough (bottom) to the crest (top) of the wave.
Three things that affect the strength of a wave are the amplitude, which is the height of the wave, the frequency, which is the number of waves that pass a fixed point in a given amount of time, and the distance over which the wave travels, which can also impact its strength.
Tides
Water depth does not affect wave height in deep water. In deep water, the wave height is determined by the wind speed, duration, and fetch (distance wind has traveled over water).
twelve feet
As a wave enters shallow water, the wavelength decreases while the wave height increases. This happens because the wave encounters the ocean floor, causing the wave to slow down and compress, resulting in a shorter wavelength and higher wave height.
The color of the wave, the wind speed, and the direction of the wave do not determine the height, length, and period of a wave. These factors are influenced more by the wavelength, frequency, and ocean depth.
Friction between the ocean floor and the water can slow down the wave at the bottom, causing the wave to decrease in height and change direction as it approaches shallower water. This can result in the wave breaking as it reaches the shore.
The largest ocean waves typically occur during intense storms, especially those associated with strong winds and low-pressure systems, such as hurricanes or typhoons. The height of the waves is influenced by factors like wind speed, wind duration, and the distance over which the wind blows (fetch). Additionally, underwater topography and ocean currents can affect wave formation and height, contributing to the overall wave energy and size.
The force of friction between the wave and the seabed as the wave approaches the shore causes it to slow down and increase in height. This interaction, known as wave shoaling, leads to changes in the wave's characteristics, such as height, speed, and steepness.