By National Electric Code only the Main Panel should bond ground and neutral. If subpanels have ground and neutral bonded, it could cause ground loops and shock hazards.
All metallic components of of any connected electrical equipment. Metallic framed buildings. Metallic well casings. Transmission towers. Antenna towers. Best rule of thumb, if it is built from metal and is used for electrical purposes, ground it.
You'll have to explain your problem better.If HOT black and Neutral White in your house wiring are both hot then Neutral is NOT bounded to ground in main panel and neutral could be floating. There should be no voltage between Neutral and Ground (Bare wire in panel). By code if there are multiple panels Ground is only bonded to Neutral in th emain entry panel. I have seen cases where this bonding was not done. At your main panel check voltage between neutral and ground. It should be zero.
Take a look at the junction where the ground wire and the neutral enter the panel. There you should see a green grounding screw that protruded through the neutral block and into the metal enclosure of the distribution panel.
It depends on the color coding standards for what country you are in. In the US, the answer is no. The Neutral (white wire) is grounded at the service entrance to the building. The black wire should have roughly the same voltage to the neutral and to the ground. Something to be aware of: If you are using a meter and checking for continuity between the black wire and ground, it may tell you that they have continuity if the breaker is on.
First off, this is for a single phase 120/240V system only. The ground and neutral can be bonded at the receptacle but not instead of bonding them at the panel.You should always have them bonded together at the panel in a single phase 120/240V system. Otherwise you risk having a floating neutral in your system.
If you have to connect the neutral to ground to make the circuit work then you have an open neutral in your circuit. Be careful in handling the neutral as there can be voltage potential on the neutral if a load is connected. In a properly wired home that has been inspected by the local electrical inspector the neutral should be bonded to the ground at the main service distribution point. There will be a green screw that projects through the neutral bus and is threaded into the back of the electrical panel. This should be the one and only place in the whole electrical system where this neutral to ground connection takes place. Dangerous!!!!! The ground is the safety to prevent you from getting shocked due to a malfunctioning piece of equipment. By using the ground for a neutral you will be energizing the entire ground system of you house or business. Thus anything with metal on it and a ground wire going to it will be electrified if the ground fails at the breaker box or building ground rod. Do you want to take this risk? Not I..........
Ideally ground and neutral should be at the same potential, but as there is current in the neutral wire and no current (normally) in the ground wire there can be a difference. I have personally measured over 25 VAC on the neutral relative to ground in some systems.
There should be zero voltage between neutral and ground.
Ground wire to neutral wire.
Yes. The panel must be grounded with its own grounding rod. The ground will not be provided with the feeders to the panel, these will only contain your phase wires and neutral. Also make sure that any subpanel installed does not have the neutral bonded to ground. This should only be done at the main panel where the electrical utility service is connected.
A bare grounded neutral should never get close to the ground if it is wired properly. When the neutral leaves the meter base it is in conduit and should enter into the distribution panel where it connects to the neutral buss. It is at this junction that the copper ground wire is connected after coming from the outside ground rod or ground plate which ever grounding system was used.