Swimming Pools

What chemicals are needed for a new swimming pool?

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2014-06-25 18:58:07
2014-06-25 18:58:07

If you are filling the pool with water yourself and not having a pool maintenance firm do it, then you'll likely need:

· Calcium (via Calcium Chloride or possibly Calcium Carbonate if you need to increase alkalinity as well). This assumes that your source water has less than 300 ppm CaCO3 equivalent of calcium hardness.

· Bicarbonate of soda to get the Total Alkalinity to 80-120 ppm. After that, then it's mostly just adding chlorine and adjusting pH (with acid if you use liquid chlorine; base if you use Tri-Chlor).

NOTE: If you use Tri-Chlor (or Di-Chlor), you will be increasing your Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels substantially over even one summer of use. If you do frequent backwash of your sand or DE pool filter (paper filters don't need backwash) and if you splash out lots of water, then the CYA level might be OK. Otherwise, 1 tablet of Tri-Chlor produces (in 16,000 gallons) about 2.5 ppm of chlorine AND 2 ppm of CYA. Di-chlor produces 1.5 times as much CYA for the same amount of chlorine as Tri-Chlor.

· Sodium Bicarb.

· Muriatic acid

· A floater (don't put your tabs in the skimmer)

· Taylor DPD Test Kit-- You'll also need to know how to make adjustments and the meaning of each reading. Test chemical levels before letting anyone enter the pool. Do not allow anyone in the pool for at least half an hour after treatment.

· Never Mix Chemicals!!!

· Run your filter pump as recommended-possibly 2-4 hours a day. Filter use will increase when used with an intex cover or solar cover, as air cannot circulate.

If you have not had a pool before, you should take a course in managing the pool--often offered through your local government.

Having a properly balanced pool is not difficult, but it does take work.

I'm the pool operator at our local YMCA and keeping an 80,000 gallon pool balanced is pretty easy, once you all the elements in place and know what you're doing.

Chlorine 1.5-3.5, alkalinity 80-100, pH 7.6-7.8, not 7.2, hardness 150-250, not up to 400.

You have to stay on top of it because the chlorine can go down in a matter of hours if no one properly checks it.

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