To clean murky and green pool water, follow these steps:

1. First and foremost make sure you have good flow. Clean your filter and all your baskets.

2. Next, balance your water. If your alkalinity is low, you are running the risk of staining your pool.

3. Then, use a algaecide and shock your pool. When you purchase the algaecide ask someone that works there( or read the directions carefully). The ones that have been found to work best require you to shock with the treatment.

4. After that, run your filter 24 hours and test it again. The algaecide will bring your chlorine level down so you must make sure it does not get too low. At this point your water may be cloudy or you may have a lot of dead algae on the floor.

5. Vacuum up that algae and clean that filter out. If the water is cloudy use the directions below they are great! Just keep cleaning that filter out until that water is clear.

Another effective way to solve this problem, using the cartridge filter, is this:

1. To kill the algae, use lots of chlorine, algaecide etc.

2. Coagulate the dead algae into large clumps. Pool supply stores sell a spray coagulator that attaches to a garden hose. Spray it over the pool and let it sit overnight.

3.Add diatomaceous earth to the filter. This white powder is sold in pool stores and used to be necessary before cartridges became affordable. Add a lot. This coats the filter and makes it impermeable, even to algae-sized particles.

4. Run the vacuum and filter till pressure exceeds 35, then clean. Cleaning the filter causes a flood of the white earth to run off, so pick a good site. I bring mine to the car wash and clean it with the rinse pressure hose.

5. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the pool is clear.

This works, and you don't lose pool water, but here are a couple of points:

1. Prevention is best. Keep chlorine levels over 2ppm, use algaecide, even when the pool looks good.

2. The cartridge filter rarely survives. Once the pool is clear, buy a new filter and throw out the old one.

Over chlorination will not cause algae growth. Period. Have the pool tested for phosphates. In many cases, this causes repeated algae growth. Then triple shock with 3L liquid chlorine per 10000L pool water. You have to add enough chlorine to kill all the algae and leave a bit of chlorine left over. Once the dead algae settles to the bottom, vacuum to waste.

Heavily shock the pool, depending on how many gallons your pool is, preferably using liquid chlorine. Do that every other day until the algae is gone. Clean your filter at least twice a day if using a cartridge filter and backwash once a day if using a D.E. filter.

You can also re-filter the pool or have a professional clean the pool.

Alternative Methods and Technology

Over the last four or five years we have been substituting an electronic purifier for chemicals. Chemicals in the main are old technology, are expensive, and if you are in a pool for a long time, you can get itchy skin and sore eyes. A company called Care Free Clearwater produces an electronic purifier developed by NASA. For us, it has worked very well over the years. We have not had any problems with "green" pools.

It's true that too much chlorine does not cause algae growth, but there is a better and safer way to clean a pool. Advanced treatment options, such as ultraviolet technology, provides a greater destruction rate of bacteria, algae, virus and germs than any chemical treatment. Recent studies by the World Health Organization recognise UV as the only treatment option that kills the algae, bacteria, and virus without the harmful chemical side effects. You can reduce chemical use by as much as 95%. Science has provided a better way than using salt systems, chlorine, triple shock, and Muratic acid that is well worth looking into.

It's true that too much chlorine will not feed algae, but too many chloramines, which is dead or dormant chlorine, absolutely can and will. When triple shocking with chlorine, you must understand that you can only do it to 10 times your chlorine level. If your chlorine level is 2.0 ppm, you must add enough chlorine to reach 12 ppm, or you are

wasting time and money, and adding to the phosphate levels, which is algae's primary food. Ultraviolet is an awesome addition to any chemical, whether chlorine, bromine or salt. The key word is addition. Used as a stand alone sanitizer it will not recover quickly enough to kill bacteria in the water if you deplete its residual, which is like one person getting in a 500 gallon hot tub for 15 minutes and urinating once. Under those conditions, ultraviolet is no longer effective for quite some time.

Also - Algae will eat up any chlorine added to the pool. Many pool owners do not check for the stabilizer(conditioner) readings in the pool. Use a test strip that will read the conditioner level in the pool water. A low conditioner level means that the chlorine in the water has nothing to "bind" to, or is not "stabilized". Low levels of conditioner will cause the chlorine in the pool to disipate in a couple of days, no matter how much chlorine you add.

Another way of doing this is to add a specialty chemical designed to clear up the water in your pool. One such product is 'Clear Cloudy Pools' From Technical Pool Solutions. This product is really amazing all you do is add 1 oz per 1000 gallans and it is non-chlorine based and doesn't require that you shut down your pool. Unless of course it is too dirty to be open in the first place. This product removes all the particles from the water that are making your pool cloudy and drops them down to the main drain. Simply run your vacuum or main drain continuously until the particle have been removed.

1. The first thing you do is try to shock the pool with chlorine this can sometime work well enough to fix the problem. Make sure that you brush hand vacuum (to Waste walls and floor of the pool after the dead algae has settled to the bottom.
2. If that does not work try the same procedure with the aid of an algaecide. Follow the instructions on the container and mention to the pool shop where you buy it what you are doing You will be surprised how keen they will be to help you.
3. If that still does not work you may need to get a floculent or clarifier to sink all of the algae to the bottom and then vacuum it to waste, once again get your pool shop to advise you regarding the floculents available in your location

As with all design choices, the answer is it depends on what you are trying to achieve. First, let's start with a few basics on understanding the comparison. A genuine Kool Deck brand surface from Mortex Mfg. is a pure cementitious topping unlike an "acrylic", which is a polymer modified cement. A Kool Deck surface will undoubtedly have a lower relative surface temperature than an equivalent acrylic topping of the similar color and will also be more skid-resistant when either wet or dry. A polymer modified cement topping will generally have much better stain resistance than a Kool Deck surface (which can be enhanced to provide similar stain resistance at a cost). Polymer toppings for the most part are deemed easier to apply and require less people for a job. This simplicity does come at a price, as the cost of materials is significantly higher than all the materials required for a Kool Deck surface. The major hurdle for those looking for Kool Deck surface is finding a skilled applicator to insure a proper application - look at the work of the contractor and do your homework!

Bottom line is that a Kool Deck surface is still the best choice for barefoot areas where comfort is king, while polymers are better suited for deck areas expecting staining problems, customer wants custom patterns, or applicators are more comfortable installing the latter.

Sun Deck is an acrylic concrete deck finish that is very durable, stain resistant, and cool. Also quite popular in South Texas.

Algae makes swimming pool water green.

Here is advice and input:

• Your pool water turned green most likely because of an algae bloom in your pool water. When you shocked the pool and added the copper algaecide you might have oxidized the copper in the algaecide. What I would do if I were you is take a sample of the water (about 16oz.) to your local pool store and have them test for metals.
• Another possibility is that there is metal in the water, which will react with chlorine and turn green or brown. Many parts of the country have naturally high levels of metal in their water, so this can be a problem any time replacement water is added to a pool. Use Natural Chemistry's MetalFree or another chellating agent.
• Algae is probably at the bottom of your pool had same problem the bottom of my pool was brown. I went to pool store and they told me to do the following: raise pH above 8 test pH. next 1 lb of yellow out and 1 lb of shock run filter, then brush and then vacuum. next 12 hrs later 1/2 bag of shock. Next 12 hrs later 1/2 bag shock. Test your chemicals run filter brush and vacuum and you should be good to go my pool is above ground 4,500 gallons so talk to a pool store.
• Yellow out is shock by the way always read the product labels mixing the wrong chemicals together pose health risks. Your pool water is green because your PH is out of balance making your chlorine ineffective and your filtering system is not working correctly.
• Algae is certainly the cause of the green, but an imbalance of pH and/or alkalinity is why you have algae in the first place (while there is adequate chlorine). Very high or low pH significantly decreases the effectiveness of chlorine. I suggest that you test and adjust your pH and alkalinity first (take a water sample to your local pool store and have them test it if needed). Once those are balanced, shock the water and use an algaecide. Run the filter 24 hrs per day and vacuum the dead algae debris often - you'll also have to clean the filter almost daily. Once the green starts to disappear, add a blue clarifier to help clear the dead algae from the water and eliminate any cloudiness.
• The oxidation rate of your chlorine is affected by the pH level. ppm of your chlorine is just a quantity and the oxidation rate is the quality of the water. To properly control a pool you should use a pool controller that measures the oxidation rate or ORP.
• The absolute fix for algae bloomed pool: DRAIN , ACID WASH and REFILL.
• Acid Washing an In Ground Pool: Also called a drain & acid clean. An acid wash becomes necessary if the pool has turned into the "black lagoon". This may occur if the winterizing process is not done properly, or if the pool has been stagnant for a period of time so that algae has taken over. If you notice scaly, man-phibian creatures splashing around out back, it's probably time to drain & acid clean.
• Our general rule of thumb for determining the need for an acid wash is: if you can see the bottom of the pool (the floor) then you can usually bring it back with chemicals, labor and extensive filtering. However , once a pool has turned dark green or even black , algae and mold spores have impregnated themselves into every porous depth of the pool surface and are difficult or impossible to remove by traditional cleaning and chlorinating methods.
• As a result the pool will continue to spawn new mold, algae and bacteria at an accelerated rate causing the pool to turn green quickly even though you may be vacuuming and chlorinating more. This will play havoc on your filter media such as sand ,cartridges or DE requiring frequent media changes to remove the contaminants.
• If the floor is not visible, the cost of the chemicals and labor will generally be greater than the acid wash charge, and take much, much longer. Also, extensive algae blooms will permanently stain and adhere to plastered , concrete and gunite pools, making an acid wash desirable.
• An acid wash is, put simply, purposeful stripping of a tiny layer of plaster or concrete, exposing fresher , undamaged and clean material beneath. Therefore, it is ill-advised to make it an annual custom, which will accelerate the need for replastering. Most plaster coats (sometimes called whitecoat or marcite) are in excess of 1/2", so a few careful acid washes should not hurt. Pools can also be commercial strength bleach washed or high pressure washed if the effected area isn't that bad.
• Costs to acid wash and emptied pool range between 900.00 and 1200.00 in Maryland , Virginia and DC. If your pool is filled with contaminated water and debris, the cost to drain and acid wash may range 1600.00 to 2800.00 depending on the degree of contamination and the amount of non-drainable debris that must be removed and disposed of by manual labor. You may also decide on an acid wash not because of swamp conditions, mold , algae and bacteria but just to bring out a brighter, whiter finish. Mineral stains and/or deposits, chlorine stains, even dirt stains...an acid wash is always a dramatic aesthetic improvement.
• If your pool has had years of algae blooms, and if your pool seems to grow algae overnight or just bloom very easily....changing the water and acid washing the surfaces algae sticks to can give you an algae free summer and save you a bundle in lost pool time , labor , filter media and chemicals. Acid is a dangerous substance. Pool company personnel are specially trained in its application and wear protective clothing and breathing apparatus during the acid wash. To protect our environment, the acid/water waste should be neutralized with soda ash prior to its being pumped to a safe location. In many states , permits may be required. If it is a clear green then it is copper, cloudy green is algae the best, safest, and cheapest way to remove the copper is by using Alum. The same alum used when making pickles, just look down the spice isle in the short bottles.
• So clean your pool so this does not happen to you, ok use cleaning product to clean it. If it get to bad get pool cleaner man to do it for you.

Black algae is a serious problem, particularly during the summer. In the semi-private pool we had, the technician tried to fix the problem with the water in the pool. We ended up [hired a new pool company] having to empty the pool, do the remedial things to the pool surface, replace the sand filter. It was expensive and probably would have been easier to do it the hard way first.

If it is at the bottom, brush with s/s brush turn pump off and add trichlor on top of the algae, let it seat for 2-3 days, brush again. If it is in the walls add silver based liquid algaecide as per manufacturer's recommendations.

"Black Algae" (actually blue-green algae) forms in cracks and crevices on pool surfaces, especially plaster finishes. We normally find black algae growing in, but not limited to, shady areas of the pool.

Black algae is more typically found in concrete or plaster finished pools; it is very uncommon to find it in vinyl liner pools. It is known for a heavy slime layer and "skeletal growths" that make it impervious to normal chlorine levels (1.0 - 2.5 ppm). Black algae can grow "condominium style" providing layers of algae one on top of the other. Slight cracks in plaster or fiberglass walls are perfect breeding grounds for black algae especially when the pool is not properly maintained.

Two ways to get rid of black algae, algaecides typically do not work, mainly just a waste of money. First way is to spread either cal hypo or granular triclor directly on the algae. Lower Ph so the killing form of chlorine is more effective generally 7.0 to 7.4. You first should brush the spots with a ss brush. Do not do this on a dark plaster or vinyl liner pool, chlorine will either bleach or stain color. When doing this turn off pool sweep for a few days. Second and most effective way is to get two cases of liquid chlorine 8 gallons, and two gallon of ammonia hydroxide (most pool stores can order this for you) and muriatic acid. Close the pool for two weeks. Do not let anyone swim or animals drink from the pool for at least two weeks (diarrhea). Lower pH to around 7.0 Add the 8 gallons of chlorine around the pool. Turn on filter pump let run for 24 hours at least. Now you have to add the amonia hydroxide. When you do this make sure that no one hangs around the pool for a few hours (there are some gasses from the mixture of chemicals). let your system run as normal after the 24 hours. Brush pool with ss brush as often as possible. And make sure that the pool is not use. can not stress this enough. Wait till the chlorine residual has lowered to safe levels to reuse pool. At least two weeks. May have to add more chlorine after week one depends on the amount of BA, may have to try method one during this process. What this does is with the combination of ammonia and chlorine raises the residual to around 50 ppm and burns out the BA from the root. Once this is done there will or may be etching in the plaster from were the BA was, to help with this get a sanding block from your local pool store or professional, and sand the areas were the BA was to make the plaster more uniform.

I am a pool professional and have done this on a few pools and works like magic. I have done this to a pool that was covered with black algae, tried everything on this pool and nothing else worked also did the first way that i talked about, only helped a little just slowed down.

Do not scrub the pool with acid, will do nothing other than burn plaster. You can use liquid chlorine to scrub pool, this works to kill the algae and helps to bleach the plaster and disinfects the pool when a pool was not properly sanitized. Muriatic acid is not going to kill the algae, only will temporarily make the algae disappear. If you have your pool re-plastered make sure that the plasterer cuts away the spots were the algae was. I have seen pools that had Black algae before being re-plastered and soon after new plaster was applied it came back. Some times you have to remove the gunite as well.

Caution

Mixing Any type of chlorine product with amonia hydroxide is asking for a dangerous out come. Don't Do It.

Balance your pool water, brush the algae spots with a stainless steel algae brush to break the outer shell, in a vinyl liner pool use a 3M black scrubber pad. Having done this, super shock raising Free Available Chlorine to 5 to 10 ppm add a good copper or silver based algaecide, make sure the product is chelated which will prevent staining and follow the instructions to the letter. These are products that more is not better.

I'm facing this problem now, with the city authorities after me to take care of it (with less than 28 days notice!) The pool, an inground gunite kidney-shaped beauty heaved out of the ground shortly after we bought the house. It seems it will need a drainage pipe and/or (??) get broken down the bottom, get filled with dirt and the upended side either broken up (more money) or, which I like, turned into a stone fence. Inside will be a garden area. Good luck. Just be sure to break it up at the bottom. I heard of one guy who didn't do this and he had a swamp in his backyard for two years before going back at it again.

Check with your local government to see if you need a permit and inspection when you do this.

a starting point might be mother earth news. they go over living pool and talk about materials. you could always add a pump, filter, waterfall, fountain to maintain your pool. motherearthnews

go to archives issue 193

natural pools

august/September 2002 issue

It took a bunch of work and research on my part and a lot of time. I documented my experience on a website:

http://www.howibuiltmyownpool.com/

Non-licensed individuals rely on OJT, friends and what engineers know as SWAG.

It's easy to hire a swimming pool professional, engineer, or architect to handle your project. You get what you pay for and piece of mind when you hire a professional who is licensed and insured.

Are your looking for a reference on construction codes for an inground pool. The latest codes are ANSI/NSPI-5 2003 55 Pages of the most current codes adopted by most building officials. This is just one reference for sale. Last I knew you could order it from ANSI for around 200.00. You cant expect your local library to keep current on construction building codes, on the budgets they have a hard time keeping up on the newest poly sci rags.

On a very serious and noteworthy item is dual main drains, you're responsible for building with the most current standards as the contractor. You will also note changes to slope and walls in all swimming pools. Believe me the old liners cheap and for sale show up every day that do not meet code. Every day I find many suppliers unaware of changes that's a real fact. Swim safe hire a licensed insured swimming pool professional.

-- First, no manufacturer of fiberglass pools guarantees against cracks. Period.

-- Second, all pools can have problems when the water is emptied; when leaks are not repaired in a timely fashion; or when the water is lower than the surrounding groundwater.

Fiberglass pools are great: They can be installed with fewer subcontractors and in less time than a gunite pool. And they also have a smooth surface. Gunite pools have many choices and are not limited in size, shape or depth. They also have many smooth surface options and color choices and warranties vary.

Last and most important: YES, it takes a professional to install any in-ground swimming pool. If you don't hire one, you most likely will not get a good pool -- no matter what the shell is constructed of. It takes many years to learn to be a pool professional; this is not a craft that happens overnight.

Hire a professional, licensed, insured pool pro to get the pool you expect and to save money in the long run. Read your warranty: The fiberglass manufacturers have great warranties, as do the gunite manufacturers and even the Vinyl Liner in-ground pools alike.

• I have spoken to several people and was told that if you have a lot of clay in your soil and there is heavy rain, the fiberglass can actually pop out of the ground and float in the hole created for it (along with breaking up the surrounding concrete decking). My viewpoint is that it would be cheaper to spend $3,000-$5,000 to replace a liner.

• I have owned all 3 types of pools (vinyl, fiberglass and concrete) in Michigan. Fiberglass pools are 10 times easier to maintain and much easier on the kids' feet. The rumor about fiberglass popping out and cracking is ridiculous. The concrete pool I owned did crack and the vinyl pool ripped twice in 3 years. My Viking fiberglass pool is guaranteed forever against cracking!

• Both fiberglass and gunite pools offer excellent family fun centers. Quality is very high in each product. Fiberglass is limited by shape and size over gunite or vinyl liner. The surface of all three pools is excellent, and like any other product will yield excellent service with reasonable maintenance. If you are looking for excellent value, great family fun and a lasting investment at your home, nothing compares to an affordable in-ground swimming pool. A properly installed in-ground swimming pool, by one of the many industry-licensed professional builders, will last much longer than 35 years. ="margin-right:0px">

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I am a fiberglass swimming pool installer. 12 years and counting with A++ knowledge and record. FYI- I have scene floating gunite pools and floating vinyl liners. If a pool develops a leak or the ground shifts or flooding occurs, it does not matter what type of pool you have, if there is more water on the outside of the pool shell than on the inside, something has to give. The liner pools develope floating liners even being full if there is a ground water issue and no precautions are taken during the install. Such as sump systems for the ground water.

Fiberglass Is 17 times denser that concrete giving it strength and more flexibility. I have seen them move up to as much as 5'' and hold their integrity.

Now. If the proper installation is applied to the life time warrenty shell, it to can be a lifetime backyard enjoyment for the family. The installation preperation and consideration of all elements and ground conditions to the area makes each and every pool install differant. Never one the same. So look at all of the variables involved with your backyard and keep in mind, If I you willing to spend your hard earned money on something that needs to last at least 20 plus years, what can be done during the install to help the projects longevity and your future sanity?="margin-right:0px">

Water Evaporation from a Pool

The evaporation rate depends on the surface area of the pool, the temperature, and the relative humidity and the wind. I'm sure an "equation" containing the variables is known. Perhaps a civil or mechanical engineer would have a specific equation. I did find what seems to be a credible source that provides a reasonable answer. Here is the link: Marin municipal water district. They have a chart that lists 200-300 gallons per week for a medium-sized pool -- about 2%-5% of typical pool volumes. "Splash-out" water is probably a much more significant source of water loss.

Here are more opinions and answers:

• In my 14 years of experience, I found that there are a lot of circumstances involved in how much water is lost during evaporation. The best way to find out how much water your pool is losing is the following:

  Take a 5-gallon bucket and make a mark with a permanent marker at about the halfway point. Fill the bucket with water up to that point, and set the bucket right beside your swimming pool. Simultaneously, use a pencil to mark the water level on your pool tile. In that way, your can determine how much water has evaporated from the bucket and from the pool.

• The evaporation rate of water from a swimming pool is fairly easy to calculate; given you have access to a psychometric chart or a water vapor tables. W=(A (69.4+30.8 (V)) / Y )(Pw-Pa) W = lb / hr of evaporation. A = surface area of the swimming pool. V = mean wind velocity (mph). Y= Latent heat (approx. 1000). Pw - Sat. Press at Room Air temp (in Hg). Pa - Sat. Vapor press at water temp (in Hg)
• Wow! Who has enough time on their hands to run complicated math formulas. A simple rule of thumb in the pool industry is that 1/2" to 1" per day is normal evaporation. Evaporation more than 1" per day would indicate a considerable amount of splash-out or a water leak.
• The above answer is completely incorrect!! I have worked in the pool industry for over 30 years, and I am currently a leak detection professional who teaches my craft at the swimming pool convention. I am also a founder of an international alliance of swimming pool leak specialists. 1/2" to 1" per day is not a general rule of thumb in the pool industry and is excessive! Use a bucket of water set next to your pool to determine how much water evaporates in your area. Even two pools at neighboring properties can have different evaporation rates due to differing environments.
• In different areas the rate of loss varies, but in Houston, Texas, we figure on evaporation of 1" to 1.5" per week during the summer.
• Some people don't realize that water evaporation is much greater in the fall than in the summer -- when water temperatures are high and air temperatures are cold (especially at night). This will just suck the water right out of the pool.

  I am sure there are a lot of variables regarding geographic location and humidity levels. In the Mid-Atlantic, I would consider anything over 1/2" per day the mark to start looking for problems (unless you have a heated spa or waterfall, etc.).