Hot wire can be either black, or red in most cases. However in certain situations (such as 3 or 4 way switches) the white, or neutral wire may be "hot". Such cases should always be taped or colored black, but sometimes are not. Best to test with a good circuit tester, they will tell you voltage, as well as polarity!
The first two things to say when answering this question is:
1) Never trust the colors you see!
2) Always remember, the hot wire of a circuit is the wire that your tester reads voltage on.
The "neutral" wire on a typical 120 volt circuit has insulation which is colored white, however a white wire can be a "hot" if it is being used as a switch leg in residential wiring. If so, it should have been clearly identified as a "hot" by a colored marking tape showing that it is not a neutral.
The only wire that should never be used as a "hot" is a Green wire because that color is reserved to be used only for a "safety ground" wire.
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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Yes. Make sure you secure the other leg of the 220 V with a wire nut so it doesn't short out. With some outlets you can separate the bottom and top of a duplex and run one from 1-leg of the 220 and the other from the 2nd leg with the same neutral. Not sure what the NEA code says about this. If you do this you physically have to remove the metal jumper between the top and bottom outlets on the hot side.
In the case of properly-wired household electrical circuits, the neutral wire will be white, that is it will be covered with white insulation. If a different color wire is used for the neutral, it should be "coded" at both ends with a wrap of white electrical tape.
The neutral wire should measure zero volts above ground state, live circuit or not, when measured by a voltmeter (again, in the case of household installations.)
It is important to understand that a voltmeter cannot tell you "what the voltage is." Voltage, by definition, is a difference in electrical potential between two points. So a voltmeter can only tell you the difference in voltage between the two test points you choose. If you test one end of a good fuse in a live 120 V circuit against the other end of the good fuse, the voltmeter will read zero, since 120 minus 120 equals zero.
If you then touch the fuse, standing on the ground, you will be electrocuted at 120 V minus 0 (ground state) which equals 120 Volts.
Aluminum ladders should be outlawed for the same reason.
The voltage supplied to a home, in North America for example, comes from two power lines rated, typically, at 4600 V between the two lines. It then goes through a transformer (that cylindrical object on the pole) that steps it down to 240 Volts on the secondary side. The secondary side of that transformer is center-tapped, dividing the 240 V into 120 Volts to ground from one wire, and 120 Volts to ground from the other (the center tap is bonded to a 20-foot ground rod driven into the earth at the base of the pole.)
The neutral wire should be the center point of a 240V household electrical system, and should be at ground state, and should NOT be able to shock you. If it is not, or if the neutral wire shocks you, then something has been installed wrong.
If the cord is not zipcord, but has individual wires the neutral is the white wire and the hot is the black wire (if the 3rd wire ground is present it will either be the green wire or a bare uninsulated wire).
On a lamp cord the ribbed conductor side connects to the shell of the lamp holder. This is the neutral conductor. The smooth side of the cord connects to the centre pin of the lamp holder and this is the "hot" conductor.
The long slot of the receptacle is connected to the SILVER screw and is the NEUTRAL The short slot of the receptacle is connected to the BRASS screw and is the HOT LEG
The black wire is hot and the white wire is neutral.
For wiring in the USA the Neutral conductor is required to be white or gray by the National Electrical Code.
No !
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.240 volt two wire circuits loads do not need a neutral to operate. A three wire 240 volt circuit that needs a neutral, will have a neutral the same size as the current carrying conductors. In this case a #10.
White.
Any ground wire has to be connected to an independent ground wire that returns directly to the distribution panel and not to the neutral of the circuit.
For wiring in the USA the Neutral conductor is required to be white or gray by the National Electrical Code.
No !
Answer for USA, Canada and countries running a 60 Hz supply service.240 volt two wire circuits loads do not need a neutral to operate. A three wire 240 volt circuit that needs a neutral, will have a neutral the same size as the current carrying conductors. In this case a #10.
In residential wiring the white wire is neutral on the 120 volt circuits. On a 3way circuit the red is the traveler and the white is neutral. On a 240 volt 3 wire connection the white & black are hot. On a 240 volt 4 wire connection the black and red are hot and the white is neutral.
Because the white wire on a 120 volt circuit is the neutral wire that is connected to the silver screw on outlets and switches. It is connected to the neutral bar in the service panel.
In the US of A, it's supposed to be black.
In North America the cable colour coding is Red and Black, usually used for the current carrying conductors. The third wire is White and it is used as the neutral on a three wire electrical circuit.
yes <<>> No, the ground wire is never to be used as a neutral. In this case if you need a 120 volt circuit from the 220 volt circuit a three wire cable (3C #14) must be installed.
White.
Any ground wire has to be connected to an independent ground wire that returns directly to the distribution panel and not to the neutral of the circuit.
Yes <<>> In North America, a three wire 120/240 volt system uses a neutral wire. For 240 volts two "hot" wires are used with no neutral.
You can't. The 120 volt GFCI is probably just a 2-wire (hot, neutral and ground) You would have to run a new 3-wire (2 hots, neutral and ground). The two hots are how you get the 240 volts (120+120=240). Also you must make sure the wire is gauged properly. #10 wire for 30 amps, #12 wire for 20 amps, etc.