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What do real pearls look like?

Updated: 9/13/2023
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10y ago

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Pearls have a smooth exterior with many translucent and iridescent layers. These refract light so that pearls shimmer rather than sparkle.

They are round or irregularly round. Manmade pearls are round and smooth. Some people bite on the pearls because real pearls are pearl throughout whereas manmade are usually 'painted' with a covering and can be easily scratched. Real pearls are slightly heavier than manmade.

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Real pearls can be perfectly round or misshapen. Pearls come in the following shapes:

Round: Perfectly round within 2%.

Semi-round: Round to the naked eye, yet slightly off round.

Semi-baroque: Off round with no axis of symmetry

Baroque: Irregular shape with no axis of symmetry

Circle: Ringed with grooves covering at least 30% of the pearl's surface. The pearl has an axis of symmetry.

Oval: An oval shape with axis of symmetry.

Button: A button shape with axis of symmetry.

Drop: A tear-drop shape with axis of symmetry.

It can be very difficult for the consumer to distinguish between fake and genuine pearls. The shape is not a defining factor. The size can be, if the pearl is very large. The largest South Sea pearls rarely exceed 20 mm (3/4 inch).

The easiest way consumers can determine whether or not a pearl is genuine is by conducting the tooth test. By rubbing a pearl against the biting edge of a tooth, one can feel the grainy surface of a pearl. It is important to have something to compare the test against- something plastic and smooth is a good comparable.

The graininess comes from the way pearls grow. Pearls are composed of aragonite and calcite platelets that are concentrically lined in a hexagonical brick-like structure. These small platelets feel like a super-fine sandpaper when rubbed against a tooth, even when a pearl has been thoroughly polished.

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