On a three phase motor, the phases give you direction for how to hook the motor up to make it spin one direction vs. the other. If you hook up such a motor blindly with all three phases, it may spin in the opposite direction you want; to fix, you swap any two of the three phase connections.
you can call the manufacture who made the equipment with a model number and serial number of that particular piece of equipment. for example in blower assembly or ac unit
If the nameplate states 20 amps then that is the full load amperage when the motor is running. The start up current on the motor could reach 300% of the FLA depending on the type of motor and the load that is connected to the motor.
Measure the current on the incoming side of the starter.
use clamp on amp meter
Not normally. They are sized slightly above the LRA ( locked rotor amps) or the FLA (full load amps) stated on the motor nameplate. The startup current of a motor can be 125-150% of the running load amperage. This depends on the motor, its EFF (efficiency) and the torque requirement of the load.
Generally a motor drives some equipment, it could be a fan, or a pump, connected to motor's shaft. The speed of the motor when no equipment is connected to its shaft is known as no load speed.
you can call the manufacture who made the equipment with a model number and serial number of that particular piece of equipment. for example in blower assembly or ac unit
It means that the voltage that supplies the motor has to be a direct current source.
If the nameplate states 20 amps then that is the full load amperage when the motor is running. The start up current on the motor could reach 300% of the FLA depending on the type of motor and the load that is connected to the motor.
The motors operating voltage should be on the motor's nameplate.
Measure the current on the incoming side of the starter.
Start by checking the motor current when the motor is running under load with a clamp on amp meter. If it is over nameplate rating, check and find out if the load the motor is driving is somehow dragging and creating more load that normal. 98% of the time it is the load seizing up that causes motors to trip. Drop the load off the motor and see if the motor runs under nameplate amperage. If it does that is good. Check for loose connection in the motor contactor and around the overload heater block. Check and make sure the overload heaters are set to the FLA of the motor. As a last resort megger the motor to make sure one of the phases has not grounded out.
Electrical motor specifications describe the characteristics of the motor. They are seen on the nameplate of a motor. See the PDF file of the link below for a good description of them.
use clamp on amp meter
Not normally. They are sized slightly above the LRA ( locked rotor amps) or the FLA (full load amps) stated on the motor nameplate. The startup current of a motor can be 125-150% of the running load amperage. This depends on the motor, its EFF (efficiency) and the torque requirement of the load.
If you are talking about motor control then the answer is yes. There are two things to take into account though. One, is the motor thermally protected. This is for overload protection. On fractional HP motors it will indicate this on the nameplate. If the motor is not protected, then a fractional HP motor switch should be used. Incorporated into this switch is a heater element that the motor current flows through. If the motor current gets over the motor nameplate rating then the heater trips the switch and shuts the motor off. The other thing is that the switch has to be motor rated, currents and voltage matching the motor nameplate ratings. The specific switch has been designed to open motor currents under full motor loads. An ordinary house light switch is not motor load rated and should not be used for this purpose.
FLA: Full Load Ampere. Its the current drawn by the motor when the motor is running at full load FLA = kW / (1.732*V*pf*efficiency*100)