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A camshaft synchronizer is a device driven off the camshaft that couples to a sensor that tells the car's powertrain computer at what point of rotation the camshaft is. The information from the sensor is used by the powertrain computer to time the spark that will ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders. Many engines using camshaft synchronizers are older designs that were originally designed to have a conventional distributor; the camshaft synchronizer mounts in the same place as the distributor used to.
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Does the camshaft synchronizer affect automatic transmissions?
My cam synchronizer failed and it was causing the trans to shift erratically and to slip
Why does it sound like a bird chirping under the hood?
It could be the camshaft synchronizer
How do you change a cam synchronizer on a 2000 Ford Taurus?
See the "Related Link" below for a comprehensive, photo-illustrated conversation on replacing the camshaft synchronizer. Also see "Related Questions" below
What does inspection code p1309 means?
This code could mean: * the camshaft position sensor could be defective, * the camshaft synchronizer (the part that took the place of the distributor on DIS engines) has failed, * if you have recently had the camshaft synchronizer replaced it could be out of time. Alignment tools are available DenLors, however they are not usually needed if the old synchronizer is marked carefully before removal, many tech's keep a small bottle of white touch up paint in their tool box for this purpose.
1998 Windstar 38 engine Where is the camshaft position sensor located?
On top of the cam sensor synchronizer which is sticking out of the top of the timing cover on the front of the engine.
Where is the camshaft position sensor on a 95 ford ranger 4.0?
I'm not a mechanic / technician but from what I have read : The camshaft position sensor on top of the camshaft position synchronizer on the Ford 4.0 liter EFI , V6 engine , is on top of the engine , near the center line , at the back of the engine near the firewall * apparently you can't see it until the upper intake manifold is removed
What drives oil pump 2003 ranger 3.0?
I'm not a mechanic / technician but I was looking at ford parts . com ( no spaces ) and it shows : A drive shaft from the bottom of the ( engine camshaft synchronizer ) to the ( oil pump )
What is the purpose of a radar synchronizer?
purpose of a radar synchronizer is to control timing throughout the system.
Where is the camshaft position sensor located on a 1998 Ford Taurus?
If you are talking about a 3.0 (12 valve), it is on the camshaft position synchronizer at the rear of the engine under the engine control wiring harness, below the thermostat housing area. If you are talking about a 3.0 (24 valve), it bolts to the front of the timing cover with an 8mm bolt.
Where is the oil pump drive on a 1998 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 efi engine?
On a 4.0 liter EFI , V6 engine , in a 1998 Ford Ranger : The camshaft position synchronizer located on the top of the engine , near the centerline , at the rear of the engine near the firewall , has a shaft from the bottom that drives the oil pump * From what I understand you can't see the synchronizer with the upper intake manifold installed
How do you remove camshaft synchronizer out of ford windstar 3.8L?
I replaced the synchronizer on my 96 Windstar 3.8L because my van was making a terrible screeching noise. At first I thought it was the water pump or the belt tensioner but as a process of elimination I removed my accessory belt to run the vehicle for half a minute to see if the noise was still there. To my surprise the squeaking was still there eliminating the belt driven components. Then I knew the bearing was worn on the camshaft synchronizer. There are 2 basic ways to remove and install a new camshaft synchronizer. The first by the book requiring an additional person to help rotate the crankshaft until the #1 cylinder on the engine is top dead center and a special alignment tool for around $25 to $30. This is the gold standard for insuring your vehicles timing is set properly, but is more labor intensive and requires more skill and tools. Or a significantly easier way if a few criteria about your vehicle are met The easier method requires that the half-moon vane on top of the synchronizer has not been damaged by the magnet coming loose out of the camshaft position sensor that is bolted on top, and that the old synchronizer is currently set properly so you can set the new synchronizer in the exact same position as the old one. Basically, if the old one is set right the new one will be right if you match the orientation of the half-moon vane on top of the synchronizer while the engine is left motionless during the repair. Simple.I chose the second method to fix my van and here is how I did it. First remove the negative battery cable and remove the accessory belt off of one of your pulleys if your synchronizer is close to the belt. Both to ensure the crank remains motionless during the repair. When removing the assembly from the engine it is going to have an approximate length of 1 foot with limited ability to turn it in any direction until it is fully out. So you need to remove whatever will get in the way. The reason for the extra length is on some models the oil pump hex shaft has a little internal snap ring and will come out with the synchronizer. This will need to be transferred into the bottom of the new synchronizer before installation. I had to remove the cowl and loosen a bracket near the tensioner and a few electrical connectors. Remove the camshaft position sensor (CPS) using 5.5mm (7/32) socket. Check the condition of the synchronizer vane and the CPS magnet. DO NOT loosen the bolt holding the synchronizer to the engine block yet! With a marker mark the current location of one of the sides of the half-moon vane on the top of the old synchronizer. What you are really doing here is marking the relationship between the vane and the threaded holes that the CPS bolts into. This is critical to do accurately because this is what controls the timing and you want to match this as close as possible on the new one. Second mark the outside of the synchronizer where it meets the engine block and extend the mark onto the engine block as well. Here I used the casting seam that runs from the holes for the CPS because the old and new part has the same seam in the same location therefore it is easy to transfer the mark. This is less critical and ensures the CPS is positioned correctly in order to attach to the electrical connector. Now take some digital pictures trying to get good views of the vane location to reference later.Loosen the bolt holding the synchronizer to the engine block. Rock the synchronizer while pulling up. The vane will rotate about ⅜" counter clockwise as you pull it out because the gears on the synchronizer are spiral. A trick is to try to remove the synchronizer without altering the natural rotation so you can note its new location in relation to the mark on top (about ⅜" counter clockwise) this will be useful later when installing the new part. Transfer the marks made on the old synchronizer to the new synchronizer as accurately as possible. If the oil pump hex came out of the engine with the synchronizer assembly then yank the shaft out of the old synchronizer and insert the correct end into the new synchronizer making sure it is seated fully into the new part. Pour new motor oil onto the internal portions of the new synchronizer bearing and gears and rotate working in the oil.Insert the new synchronizer back into the hole. The spiral gear will begin to engage about 2" above its fully seated position. It is at this point you will need to recall the vane position after removal (about ⅜" counter clockwise of the top mark) and then set the new synchronizer vane to this position before engaging its spiral gear back into position as it will now rotate about ⅜" clockwise as it seats into place. The goal is to have all the marks and the vane match in its fully seated position. You will probably need more than one attempt if so lift the synchronizer up until the spiral gear disengages and rotate the gear a tooth and try again. Compare the fully seated synchronizer position to your pictures. You should be able to get the marks very close but because of machining tolerances your new part may not line up perfectly with your marks. Since the relationship between the vane and the CPS bolt holes are the critical mark align those perfectly and allow the mark at the engine block to float a little if needed. Tighten the bolt at the engine block. Compare the new synchronizer positions to your pictures one last time. Reassemble everything in reverse order of disassembly. Finished.
Need to find and replace the camshaft sensor on a 95 Ford Aerostar 3L?
IF it is the same as the 1997 3.0L, then remove the engine access cover inside the vehicle. It is atop a shaft called a synchronizer at the rear top of the engine. It is attached with two small bolts.
