0
What else can I help you with?
How do you change window motor 2003 Hyundai tiburon?
it is relativly easty, first u will need to remove the door panel(not forgetting button, speaker and light wires attached to panel) once panel is off approx middle of door there is nuts holding the motor on remove nuts and motor will be able to be removed. the gears for the window are screwed onto motor. w/motor removed from panel (the gears are held onto the motor by 3 screws i believe) the gears will now be able to be taken off. the gears will need to be removed from motor. once separated finangle motor out of door. replace motor and finangle new motor into door. now put gears onto new motor same way they came off. make sure to put the screws that hold the gears back in. put motor back into door panel put nuts back onto motor. apply wires etc to door panel, put door panel back on and test.
How do you change the spark plugs on a 1998 Subaru Legacy 4-cylinder wagon?
everyone i know has their own way of doing it but i just use a 6" extension on a 3/8 air ratchet. if you work at it a bit you can finangle it down in there and get them out. you have to remove the air box that holds your air filter out of the way and remove the washer fluid bottle on the otherside. You should replace plugwires, coilpack and plugs all in one go. Plugwires and a coil pack are $65 & $100 at the dealer, respectively (you can do 30% to 50% better buying them online if you have the time). I bought $8 Autolite APP3924�s in place of $30 factory original NGK PFR5B11�s, but suit yourself. Gap s/b .044�. Buy some anti-sieze lube too while you�re at it. Driver�s side: Remove the battery (10mm wrench) and set aside. Take out the two 13mm nuts holding the window washer jug and lift the vessel to free it up. Don�t bother disconnecting it, just rotate it onto its side and place it where the battery used to be. Passenger side: Loosen the clamp that attaches the flexible boot to the airbox. Undo the two springclips that retain the aircleaner cover. This should free up the connecting section from the air cleaner to the airbox. Lift it up and gently rotate it out of the way; no need to undo any electrical connections. Note the second airhose hidden under the flexible boot. Be sure to reconnect that when you put things back together or the engine won�t run � guess how I found that out? Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the lower half of the aircleaner box and gradually pull the box away from the fender (there�s a rubber plug holding it in). Now you can get at the plugwires. Note how they are routed � the ones nearest the firewall go to the plugs nearest the firewall. Remember that when you put things back. Now is a good time to clean things up so you won�t shovel crap back into the hole later on. You�ll probably need large pliers to remove the wires from the plugs; you can see them but a firm direct grip is �problematic. They won�t want to come out but they can be persuaded. Before you start pulling, free the rubber from the head first - a stick or even a bent screwdriver helps there. Once they�re off the sparklugs are exposed. You�ll have just over an inch and a quarter of space between the head and the body. Using a 3/8� drive set, if you insert a 5/8� sparkplug wrench and then a short extension, the end of the extension will be just visible. Connect a breaker wrench to that and pray as you loosen. Switch to a ratchet once things are freed up if you want. After the plug is free, remove the wrench parts one at a time, and then the plug. Put a clean new plug (washer and top-nut included) with a tiny amount of antisieze smeared ONLY on the threads and none on the ceramic into the plug wrench. Feed into the sparkplug hole followed by the shore extension. Use your fingers to get it started then add the ratchet. Once you hit bottom, you want to torque to 20 in/lbs. or until the washer collapses. Repeat for each cylinder. Remove and replace the coil pack now if you were going to (10mm), then re-route the plugwires. Make very sure they are fully seated onto the tops of the plugs. If you do any twisting (don�t) twist only in a clockwise direction so as to not unscrew the little nut on the top of the sparkplug. All done but reassembly now, so in reverse order from the directions above, put the aircleaner back together, put the window washer back in place, reinstall the battery, look everything over carefully, and take a test drive.
How do you replace door lock actuator on 1991 ford f150?
All right, I just got through doing this; my hands are still greasy as I type. The Haynes repair manual does not cover this relatively simple process. I'm a novice (at best), so I have no idea what the correct terminology is for these things. 1. Roll up your window, and remove the door panel. If you can't figure out how to do that, you probably don't need to try and replace your actuator yourself. 2. Your actuator is down at the bottom on the latching side of the door in the hollow. It's a pain to get to. So, you might want to loosen the bolts on one of the window braces so you can push it to the side while you work. Also, loosen the brace that attaches to your armrest so you can get it out of the way as well. It's a tight fit, so you need all the room you can get. 3. You should have already purchased your new acuator. They are relatively inexpensive ($60 at Autozone). Also, you might want to pick up a kit with bolts and washers, etc. I had to use one 1/4" x 3/4" bolt with a nut and washer; I chose a bolt with a rounded edge that required a screwdriver to make it low profile. If you need it, you'll use this bolt in a minute. 4. Removing the old actuator was the hardest part for me. It was held in place by a rivet on the outside of the door below the latch. The rivet was loose, so I had to remove it. I ended up having to drill out the rivet to get it out. (If you can, try and get the actuator out by just pushing down. It's not bolted to anything, and will pop out of the bracket if you use enough force. If you can re-use your bracket that makes it alot easier. The rest of these instructions are written as if you had to use the new bracket.) 5. Once the rivet was out, the actuator will swing freely from a rod that connects to the actual door latch mechanism. Do some twisting and turning (the rod is bent so it won't slip off), and just fenangle that rod off. Now, the only thing connecting the actuator to the truck is the wires. Disconnect those and she's loose. 6. Next, connect the wires to your new actuator. I tested mine and when I hit the lock/unlock button, she just spun. Interesting. 7. The actuator sits in a little bracket. Rubber "nipples" on the side of the actuator allow the actuator to move in and out of the bracket, but only with some effort. There should be a similar bracket with your old actuator, and they are probably still attached. Don't attach your new actuator to the bracket yet. Rather, use the bolt (mentioned above) to attach the bracket to the inside of the door. Attach it in the same direction as the one you pulled off. That means that the "u-openings" where the bracket and actuator connect should be facing down. 8. Then, choose the rod that is the same length as your old one. There should be many options. All that matters is that it's the same length. Connect this to your actuator. Finangle that rod back into the actual latch mechanism (remember how you had to fenangle it off - do the opposite). 9. Almost done. Then, you'll have to slide the actuator into the bracket. You'll have to push down and come in from underneath the bracket (if you installed the bracket facing the correct direction). Then, pull up until the nippels pop into place in the bracket. My nipples were loose rubber that popped off once or twice, so I had to do this a few times. 10. Test your door. Hopefully everything is in working order. If it's not, I think you can adjust your actuator to different lengths so that it works just right. Mine was pretty much dead on right off the bat. I went ahead and lubed everything up while I was in there to keep the components slick. That's how I did it, and I'm no mechanic (obviously). But, it seems to be working fine. I couldn't find any tips for this one online, so hopefully someone will get some benefits from my experience. The whole project took about two hours and cost me about $72, and that includes tax. Now, I can lock my door again, and maybe no one will be able to steal all of my Barry Manilow albums... again...
