Acrylic - pros: If properly cut and polished, appearance is unbeatable. Dries quickly on application,and so is less susceptible to dust. Acrylic paint is cheaper than Urathane. Easier to apply and less prone to runs. Can be done in a home garage. Over- spray on other cars is not a problem. A slightly cooler ambient temperature is OK too. But no colder than 18`C (65`F)
Cons: More coats required (6-8) Must always be cut and polished, after letting it harden for several weeks. It means that if you want a good job, you can't put exterior trims etc. back on until the polishing is finished. Single pack acrylic primers and fillers tend to shrink and sink back on repairs, so acrylic primer should only be used on a final, even prime coat, and must be given as long as possible to harden before wet sanding. In short, a high quality acrylic paintjob takes much longer. Not as resistant to solvents and chemicals as a 2-pack. Acetone and thinners destroy it, and even repeated fuel spillage will damage it. Needs more maintenance to keep it shiny.
Urathane: Pros- If the job goes well, it needs no buffing, and if it is baked,the car can be put together the next day. Off-the-gun, unbuffed paint is the longest lasting and easiest to keep clean. Urathane also resists chipping on the edges a bit better. Urathane primers have little or no shrinkage.
Cons- The paint can be very expensive, and must be applied by a professional, and in a dust free spray booth.The right temperature is important. It is more toxic to spray(contains isocyanate) although acrylic is bad too.
One is made with acrylic paint and one is made with lacquer. This is much like the question, "What is the difference between the color red and the color blue?" The answer is one is red and the other is blue.
What is Acrylic Urethane? What makes it different from Acrylic enamel and Urethane or Polyurethane paint? How does it compare in terms of application and especially hardness to the other two types?
If the Enamel is an original baked finish there should be no problem. Many DIY touch up paints are made from Acrylic Lacquer. If however the enamel is air-dried then the solvents in the lacquer will react and cause the enamel to bubble and craze. Enamel paints become hard on the surface but stay soft underneath if not baked to harden them. The lacquer is able to penetrate this outer layer and react with the enamel paint.
You could but it wouldn't last long. Urethane is a polymer and would be flexable to heat and cold, acrylic is a hard finish and would most likely crack or chip off.
Yes, that was the original intention of urethane.
Lacquer can cause the paint to bubble or crack due to the very hot solvent that is a part of lacquer. If you want a clear coat over paint, a better choice is spar varnish over oil base paint and arcylic urethane over latex.
Urethane is superior to enamels
Once they have dried, enamel and urethane paints are non-toxic.
Just about any enamel or acrylic paint will do just no lacquer as it will actually melt the plastic.
yes
Sand well first with 600 grit wet 'n dry. Then use a good primer coat before painting.
I am not familar with "Acyrlic Urethane" paint, but I wonder if it is a urethane base paint that is applied and dried, but later has an acrylic clear-coat overlayed to bring out additional gloss. Urethane is more expensive, but lasts longer and is more durable than enamel or acrylic paints. Urethane and polyurethane paints are basically the same thing - toxic paints that require a complete body suit, full mask, and gloves for safe spaying while wet. I believe that Urethane paints are not allowed to be sprayed without a license in California. Applying different manufacturers urethane paints over each other without the proper advance preparation can cause chemical reaction problems that discolor or flake the paint and void the paint OEM warranty. Each manufacturer has their own urethane additive or primer that may allow their OEM paint to be applied over the original paint. You have to check with the paint distributor or manufacturer for details on this. This paint additive or advance preparation step is how many aftermarket paint manufacturers can make their own blend of paints to match the car manufacturer original fleet colors. However, paints made over 20 years ago may have chemical components that are not compatible with newer paints and may fail when Urethane is applied over them. For example I have a 40 year old VW that has OEM baked enamel paint on engine parts. If I apply urethane paint over the enamel, it will start to flake because of the engine temperature and chemical reaction between the paints. The best solution I have found for this enamel problem is to not take a chance - I strip the parts down to the bare metal and paint with a primer and then a black gloss urethane. Since the gloss component is already mixed in, there is no need for me to overlay with a acrylic clear coat.
Where can I buy black enamel paint that is similar to Japanese black lacquer?