What is the history on working a Savage Arms 380 cal?

Answer 1

If this is a Savage automatic pistol, there were three models, all available in both .32 and .380. The model 1907 and the model 1917 work the same way, while the "hammerless" model 1915 works a little differently.

Load the magazine and insert it in the pistol. Move the safety lever from SAFE to FIRE (or, for very early model 1907s with unmarked frames, move the safety lever from pointing straight back (SAFE) to pointing straight down (FIRE). Pull the slide straight back to chamber the first round (these have heavy recoil springs, so there will be significant resistance) and release the slide. Point and shoot.

If the round fails to correctly chamber, carefully pull the slide back again and remove the round. You may have to remove the magazine to do this.

FIELD STRIPPING

To field strip a model 1907 or 1917, made sure the pistol is unloaded, and pull the slide all the way back and move the safety lever from FIRE to SAFE. This will hold the slide open. Hold the cocking burr or cocking spur (depends on model) back all the way back and, while holding it, turn the entire breechblock 90 degrees to the RIGHT. Still holding the cocking burr/spur back, pull the breechblock straight back -- the entire part will come out of the pistol.

Release the safety lever, and pull the slide forward. You may have to squeeze the trigger to allow the slide to move past the sear trip.

The barrel and recoil spring will just lift out once the slide is off.

Reverse the steps to reassemble the pistol. It is important NOT to try and turn the breechclock to the LEFT, or to reassemble the pistol with the breechblock turned to the LEFT. At best it will not fit or turn -- at worst, it will jam and be extremely difficult to remove or unjam.

The model 1917 grips are held in with a screw on each side (no screws are used anywhere in the models 1907 and 1915, and these are the only screws in the model 1917!). Carefully remove the screw and slide the grip straight back.

The "hammerless" model 1915 is a little different, since it has no cocking burr/spur. If the correct magazine is used, the slide will stay open when all the rounds in the magazine have been fired (model 1907 & 1917 magazines will also work, but will not lock open the slide). The slide release is on the front right side of the slide. The pistol will also not fire unless the grip safety is depressed.

Again, pull the slide all the way back, and move the safety lever from FIRE to SAFE to lock open the slide. Grasp the breechblock and pull it straight back and turn it 90 degrees to the RIGHT. Once it is turned, pull the breechblock straignt back to extract it from the pistol.

Otherwise, field stripping and reassembly is the same as the model 1907 & 1907.

GRIP REMOVAL

Be careful removing the grips, especially original grips. Unless you are intending to disassemble the pistol beyond field stripping (ie, work on the safety lever, on the grip safety on the model 1915, etc) it is a good idea to leave original grips alone. There is significant risk of damaging them if too much force is applied. The stamped metal grips used on the model 1907 in 1908 and 1909 bend easily, while the hard rubber grips that replaced them starting in 1909 have usually hardened over the years and become brittle; they will break easily if bent.

If you need to remove the grips, it is a good idea to check the pistol to see if a previous owner used glue or some other adhesive to help hold them on, or if many years of crud have built-up around and behind the grips and is acting like an adhesive.

Remove the magazine and put one or two fingers inside the magazine well, on the back of the magazine, and your thumb on the outside of the grip. The metal grips are just held in with friction and will slide straight back. The hard rubber grips that replaced them starting in 1909 (and were also used on the model 1915) have a small raised section on the inside rear of the grip that fits into a shallow slot in the frame. Carefully push the back of the grip out slightly and slide the grip straight back. This is the point in removel where the rubber grips are most commonly broken.

Aftermarket grips are installed the same as the hard rubber grips, but normally are still flexible.

The model 1917 grips are held in with a screw on each side (no screws are used anywhere in the models 1907 and 1915, and these are the only screws in the model 1917!). Carefully remove the screw and slide the grip straight back.

Factory installed special order grips (mother-of-pearl, etc) for all Savage models are normally held on with a screw on each side, similar to the model 1917. Use extreme caution if removing these, since they are extremely fragile and almost impossible to replace.