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What causes heads up display to go dim in a 2003 Pontiac grand prix?
I am 99.9% sure that it is the light sensor located on the HUD board. I had this same problem several times - simply requires removing the board and re-soldering the sensor. There is a great write up out there with step by step instructions on the web, check grandprix.net or do a search for fixing the Heads up display light sensor.Answer 3Courtesy of MACCPGP.com Replacing the HUD Photodiodeby Bill WhitmerTools Needed:Medium to Large Philips screwdriverVery Small Flat Head screwdriverT-15 Torx Bit or Driver25w or less (not more!) Soldering Iron, with fine tipVacuum Desoldering ToolDrill with 15/32" BitSmall needle nose pliersParts Needed:Very small amount of 1/8" diameter head shrink tubing.SolderReplacement Photodiode2x PDB-C142-ND from www.digikey.com wired in series works well (these look like LED's but they aren't). They are $1.50 each. PDB-V106-ND appears to be almost identical to the original, but it isa $7 non-stock item with a minimum order quantity of 8.This write up is for cars where the HUD photodiode is bad and theresoldering technique doesn't work.Step 1: Remove HUD Pod from DashThis can be done by raising the front of the HUD pod by about 1" thenpulling forward to release the quick clips. The quick clips can be trickyto remove without losing them in the dash. The security LED and autoheadlight sensor simply twist out of their holder.Step 2: Remove HUD from DashFirst unplug the blue connector from the left side of the HUD module.Next remove the two Philips screws on the HUD module on the side closestto the engine bay. The HUD should come out by pulling up on the sideclosest to the steering wheel, it still has two quick clips holding itdown. Be careful not to scratch the dashboard when removing the HUD.Step 3: Disassemble the HUD ModuleRemove the four Torx T-15 Screws from the Top of the HUD Module. Removethe ribbon Cable from the PCB, and the maroon two wire connector also.Remove the PCB by pushing up on the two clips.Step 4: Remove the PhotodiodeMake sure the soldering iron is at full temperature. Desolder the jointson the photodiode by heating them up with the soldering iron until theymelt, and using the vacuum desoldering tool while the joint is liquid.Place the small flathead screwdriver between the photodiode and the PCB.Again heat up each joint on the photodiode, and use the screwdriver to prythe photodiode loose. Pry only a small amount on one joint at a timeuntil the photodiode comes loose, in order not to damage the PCB.Step 5: Join the new photodiodes (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)The reason to use two photodiodes in series is that these only output .5v,and the original photodiode outputs 1.00v, the original part number isBPW21 from Vishay Semiconductor or Infineon, but I have been unable tofind a supplier for this part. Cut the positive (long) leg on one of thenew photodiodes, and cut the negative (short) leg on the other. Cut bothto about 1/4" long. Bend both cut legs 90 degrees. Solder the two cutlegs together. Cover the solder joint with a small amount of 1/8"diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the remaining two legs on thephotodiodes to about 1/4". It is very important to remember which one ispositive (originally long) and which one is negative (originally short.Bend the remaining legs to match up with the photodiode holes on the PCB.Step 6: Attach the new photodiodes to the PCBYou will need to remove the coating on the PCB where you will besoldering, it cam be easily scraped off. Melt a small amount of solder inthe holes where the original photodiode was soldered, on the bottom (nocomponents) side of the PCB. The hole that is closest to the edge of thePCB is negative, the innermost hole is positive. Attach the photodiodesby placing the correct leg of the new photodiodes against the correcthole on the top side of the PCB, and applying heat to the bottom side ofthe PCB to melt the solder. Make sure the joint is good.Step 7: Modify the top HUD module cover (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)The new photodiodes won't fit through the hole on the top cover for theHUD module. Simply drill out the hole, I used a 15/32" drill bit.Step 8: Reassemble everythingPut the PCB back in the HUD module, reconnect the two connectors, andscrew it back together. Put the HUD module back in the dash, reconnectthe connector, and put the two Philips screws back in. Now is a good timeto see if the HUD works properly. Replace the HUD pod, first reattach theauto headlight sensor and security LED, the HUD pod simply presses intoplace.Enjoy having a working HUD again!
Fixing the Heads up display light sensor?
Courtesy of MACCGP.com Replacing the HUD Photodiode by Bill Whitmer Tools Needed: Medium to Large Philips screwdriver Very Small Flat Head screwdriver T-15 Torx Bit or Driver 25w or less (not more!) Soldering Iron, with fine tip Vacuum Desoldering Tool Drill with 15/32" Bit Small needle nose pliers Parts Needed: Very small amount of 1/8" diameter head shrink tubing. Solder Replacement Photodiode 2x PDB-C142-ND from www.digikey.com wired in series works well (these look like LED's but they aren't). They are $1.50 each. PDB-V106-ND appears to be almost identical to the original, but it is a $7 non-stock item with a minimum order quantity of 8. This write up is for cars where the HUD photodiode is bad and the resoldering technique doesn't work. Step 1: Remove HUD Pod from Dash This can be done by raising the front of the HUD pod by about 1" then pulling forward to release the quick clips. The quick clips can be tricky to remove without losing them in the dash. The security LED and auto headlight sensor simply twist out of their holder. Step 2: Remove HUD from Dash First unplug the blue connector from the left side of the HUD module. Next remove the two Philips screws on the HUD module on the side closest to the engine bay. The HUD should come out by pulling up on the side closest to the steering wheel, it still has two quick clips holding it down. Be careful not to scratch the dashboard when removing the HUD. Step 3: Disassemble the HUD Module Remove the four Torx T-15 Screws from the Top of the HUD Module. Remove the ribbon Cable from the PCB, and the maroon two wire connector also. Remove the PCB by pushing up on the two clips. Step 4: Remove the Photodiode Make sure the soldering iron is at full temperature. Desolder the joints on the photodiode by heating them up with the soldering iron until they melt, and using the vacuum desoldering tool while the joint is liquid. Place the small flathead screwdriver between the photodiode and the PCB. Again heat up each joint on the photodiode, and use the screwdriver to pry the photodiode loose. Pry only a small amount on one joint at a time until the photodiode comes loose, in order not to damage the PCB. Step 5: Join the new photodiodes (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series) The reason to use two photodiodes in series is that these only output .5v, and the original photodiode outputs 1.00v, the original part number is BPW21 from Vishay Semiconductor or Infineon, but I have been unable to find a supplier for this part. Cut the positive (long) leg on one of the new photodiodes, and cut the negative (short) leg on the other. Cut both to about 1/4" long. Bend both cut legs 90 degrees. Solder the two cut legs together. Cover the solder joint with a small amount of 1/8" diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the remaining two legs on the photodiodes to about 1/4". It is very important to remember which one is positive (originally long) and which one is negative (originally short. Bend the remaining legs to match up with the photodiode holes on the PCB. Step 6: Attach the new photodiodes to the PCB You will need to remove the coating on the PCB where you will be soldering, it cam be easily scraped off. Melt a small amount of solder in the holes where the original photodiode was soldered, on the bottom (no components) side of the PCB. The hole that is closest to the edge of the PCB is negative, the innermost hole is positive. Attach the photodiodes by placing the correct leg of the new photodiodes against the correct hole on the top side of the PCB, and applying heat to the bottom side of the PCB to melt the solder. Make sure the joint is good. Step 7: Modify the top HUD module cover (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series) The new photodiodes won't fit through the hole on the top cover for the HUD module. Simply drill out the hole, I used a 15/32" drill bit. Step 8: Reassemble everything Put the PCB back in the HUD module, reconnect the two connectors, and screw it back together. Put the HUD module back in the dash, reconnect the connector, and put the two Philips screws back in. Now is a good time to see if the HUD works properly. Replace the HUD pod, first reattach the auto headlight sensor and security LED, the HUD pod simply presses into place. Enjoy having a working HUD again! Thanks goes out to the people who discovered the photodiode resoldering technique.
How do you fix the HUD Heads Up Display on a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP when it used to fade in and out and now does not come on at all?
One would first need to test the HUD, the HUD dimmer switch, related wiring as well as the IP Cluster fuse. One of these items could be faulty. Another item to check for is the wiring harness around the A?C accumulator. The wiring harness on the 97-03 Grand Prix was known to rub out and ground against the metal accumulator, causing electrical concerns including those you mention. Repair the harness and make sure it is snug. Insulate it to protect from further damage.I am 99.9% sure that it is the light sensor located on the HUD board. I had this same problem several times - simply requires removing the board and re-soldering the sensor. There is a great write up out there with step by step instructions on the web, check grandprix.net or do a search for fixing the Heads up display light sensor.3Courtesy of MACCPGP.com Replacing the HUD Photodiodeby Bill WhitmerTools Needed:Medium to Large Philips screwdriverVery Small Flat Head screwdriverT-15 Torx Bit or Driver25w or less (not more!) Soldering Iron, with fine tipVacuum Desoldering ToolDrill with 15/32" BitSmall needle nose pliersParts Needed:Very small amount of 1/8" diameter head shrink tubing.SolderReplacement Photodiode2x PDB-C142-ND from www.digikey.com wired in series works well (these look like LED's but they aren't). They are $1.50 each. PDB-V106-ND appears to be almost identical to the original, but it isa $7 non-stock item with a minimum order quantity of 8.This write up is for cars where the HUD photodiode is bad and theresoldering technique doesn't work.Step 1: Remove HUD Pod from DashThis can be done by raising the front of the HUD pod by about 1" thenpulling forward to release the quick clips. The quick clips can be trickyto remove without losing them in the dash. The security LED and autoheadlight sensor simply twist out of their holder.Step 2: Remove HUD from DashFirst unplug the blue connector from the left side of the HUD module.Next remove the two Philips screws on the HUD module on the side closestto the engine bay. The HUD should come out by pulling up on the sideclosest to the steering wheel, it still has two quick clips holding itdown. Be careful not to scratch the dashboard when removing the HUD.Step 3: Disassemble the HUD ModuleRemove the four Torx T-15 Screws from the Top of the HUD Module. Removethe ribbon Cable from the PCB, and the maroon two wire connector also.Remove the PCB by pushing up on the two clips.Step 4: Remove the PhotodiodeMake sure the soldering iron is at full temperature. Desolder the jointson the photodiode by heating them up with the soldering iron until theymelt, and using the vacuum desoldering tool while the joint is liquid.Place the small flathead screwdriver between the photodiode and the PCB.Again heat up each joint on the photodiode, and use the screwdriver to prythe photodiode loose. Pry only a small amount on one joint at a timeuntil the photodiode comes loose, in order not to damage the PCB.Step 5: Join the new photodiodes (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)The reason to use two photodiodes in series is that these only output .5v,and the original photodiode outputs 1.00v, the original part number isBPW21 from Vishay Semiconductor or Infineon, but I have been unable tofind a supplier for this part. Cut the positive (long) leg on one of thenew photodiodes, and cut the negative (short) leg on the other. Cut bothto about 1/4" long. Bend both cut legs 90 degrees. Solder the two cutlegs together. Cover the solder joint with a small amount of 1/8"diameter heat shrink tubing. Cut the remaining two legs on thephotodiodes to about 1/4". It is very important to remember which one ispositive (originally long) and which one is negative (originally short.Bend the remaining legs to match up with the photodiode holes on the PCB.Step 6: Attach the new photodiodes to the PCBYou will need to remove the coating on the PCB where you will besoldering, it cam be easily scraped off. Melt a small amount of solder inthe holes where the original photodiode was soldered, on the bottom (nocomponents) side of the PCB. The hole that is closest to the edge of thePCB is negative, the innermost hole is positive. Attach the photodiodesby placing the correct leg of the new photodiodes against the correcthole on the top side of the PCB, and applying heat to the bottom side ofthe PCB to melt the solder. Make sure the joint is good.Step 7: Modify the top HUD module cover (only if using 2 PDB-C142-ND's in series)The new photodiodes won't fit through the hole on the top cover for theHUD module. Simply drill out the hole, I used a 15/32" drill bit.Step 8: Reassemble everythingPut the PCB back in the HUD module, reconnect the two connectors, andscrew it back together. Put the HUD module back in the dash, reconnectthe connector, and put the two Philips screws back in. Now is a good timeto see if the HUD works properly. Replace the HUD pod, first reattach theauto headlight sensor and security LED, the HUD pod simply presses intoplace.Enjoy having a working HUD again!
