The formula you are looking for is W = I x E.
If it's a 12V lamp - sure. But, depending on the battery and the complexity of the installation it might be wise to put a fuse in the circuit too, right up by the battery.
Your closing the circuit!
Did you mean "maximum RESISTANCE" or "maximum VALUE"? If the former, then, you have a ZERO reading, meaning there is high resistance, and no electrical connectivity. If the latter, you have a ONE (or 100%) reading, meaning there is NO resistance, or absolute electrical connectivity. As an analogy, if you turn on a plugged-in, working, lamp, then it has NO resistance, such that power flows easily through the cord; if it didn't turn on, then there IS resistance, such that no power flows, possibly due to broken wire, bad switch, burned-out bulb, or blown fuse.
48 ohms
The electrical resistance of the circuit
Assuming you mean the 4 lamps are in parallel with each other: the total voltage drop across each lamp is still 12V. As we know that V= IR (Voltage = I Current times Resistance) 12 = 1 x R so Resistance = 12 Ohms for each lamp.
2 amperes in a parallel circuit. I = W/V. It is true provided that 12v are delivered to the lamps in parallel circuit. In a series circuit, the voltage is divided among the lamps so that the total current is probably 2 amperes for all lamps.
If you have a lamp, you can assume that the resistance of the lamp when it is under power will follow the ohms law. BUT, one thing you must remember is, when a lamp is under load, it is glowing HOT. When metal is HOT, the molculoes of the meals are in much more active state. When this happens, the resistance will increase. Conversely, when the lamp is NOT on ON state, the filaments are cold. Moleculoes in the filaments are not as active. Thus, the resistance is lower. There is almost 10 to 1 difference in resistance from hot to cold. Taking out a multimeter and measuring the resistance of the lamp will not help you determine the resistance of the lamp when it is actually under load (with voltage applied) Really, the only thing you can do is to measure the voltage, measure the current, then arrive at the resistance mathmatically.
Assuming the new lamp is in series, the ammeter reading falls because the total resistance has increased. By how much depends on how the lamp resistance depends on voltage. If the lamp is added in parallel to the first, then the ammeter reading doubles.
Resistance = voltage / current = 12V / 2.5mA = 12V / (2.5 x 10-3 A) = 4.8 x 103 ohm
The formula you are looking for is I = E/R. Amps = Volts/Resistance. If you say it is normally a 2 Amp circuit, it normally draws 2 amps. Therefore the original resistance offered to the 12v battery is 2/12 = 6 Ohms. If you then connect a 12 Ohm resistor in series, they are added, so R = 18 Ohms. Now if you put 12v across this circuit it will draw 12/18 = 0.66 Amps. Or If you just put a 12 Ohm resistor across the 12v supply it will draw 1 Amp. If the circuit is protected by a 2 Amp fuse, it will not blow, but the resistor will get hot.
If it's a 12V lamp - sure. But, depending on the battery and the complexity of the installation it might be wise to put a fuse in the circuit too, right up by the battery.
The same as a 12V relay circuit, except it only needs 6V instead of 12V.
the alternator is what puts out the 14.4 volts. if you wish to figure out the circuit use the formula A*R=V so you take the voltage 12 divide by the amp 12 and you get 1.2 as the resistance. so in your circuit, the max allowable load is 1.2 ohms.
a circuit with no resistance or zero resistance can be considered as open circuit in which the current is zero. without resistance the circuit just becomes open ()
If the current through a pure metallic conductor causes the temperature of that conductor to rise, then its resistance will increase. A practical example of this is an electric lamp. The cold resistance of a lamp is very much lower than the hot resistance.
The Formula is: P=IV =(2A)(12V) =24W