70
70
If the pressures are always equal running, the compressor is bad and would need replaced
18-20psig suction 250-270 psig discharge In freezers pressures are ok .I got it ,but the mention pressure of suction 18-20 discharge 250-270 at what temprature in centegrade it should be.
300psi
do not siphon refrigerant by mouth
The pressure should be equal to a saturated suction temperature of around 40*F. The pressure would differ depending on which refrigerant is used.
A refrigerator is basically an air conditioning system. There is a high (discharge) and a low (vacuum) side to such systems. As it goes through the system, the refrigerant will change state (e.g., high pressure vapor to high pressure liquid, high pressure liquid to low pressure liquid, low pressure liquid to low pressure vapor, low pressure vapor back to high pressure vapor). This facilitates the absorption of heat from the refrigerator compartment and the exchange of that heat to the ambient air. What you're seeing there are the pressure readings (in psig) of the high pressure and low pressure sides of that system. Your refrigerator and an automotive AC system use different refrigerants, and thus have different system operating temperatures. While those numbers would be excessively high on an automotive system, I don't know if that's the case with a refrigerator. You'd need to inquire with a qualified service professional on the matter of what your refrigerator's operating pressures should be.
R134a refrigerant pressure should be around 28-32 psig with good airflow across condenser(radiator)coil and engine rpm at or around 1500
in the refrigerator
When turned off it is possible for gas bubbles of the refrigerant to mix with the liquid refrigerant in the pump. If the refrigerator is immediately turned back on the pump will turn this mixture to a froth that it is unable to pump and the refrigerator will not function. The pump motor can overheat and in some cases burnout or even catch fire. Waiting a few minutes before turning back on will allow the refrigerant bubbles to separate from the refrigerant liquid, preventing the pump from making a froth and allowing normal operation.
If you added refrigerant, was the compressor running better before or after you added refrigerant? Compressor cycling on-off can be caused by defective low pressure switch (very rare on Subarus), or low on refrigerant. Best to test with a good refrigerant gauge-- resting pressure (system off) should be between 45 and 80 psi (higher pressure with higher temperature) on the suction side. Make CERTAIN you attach the gauge to the suction side (the side with the larger diameter hose). When the compressor cycles on, if suction pressure drops below approx 23-29 psi, the low pressure switch will shut off compressor to prevent damage. If low suction pressure, cure is to add refrigerant, little at a time. NOTE: Refrigerant is under high pressure, and is very dangerous. If you are not trained to handle refrigerant, suggest take this problem to a shop to check out.
AC compressors need to be running before the system will pull in refrigerant. Find the pressure switch and jumper the wires with the engine running and the AC turned on, that should engage the AC clutch, pulling in the refrigerant. Keep an eye on the pressure gauge though. Don't overfill or you can destroy the compressor seals.