1978-1979 Ford Bronco driveshafts
It will mostly fit. The broncos tailgate is wider, so there will be a slight gap. You will need ALL of the hardware that holds the f150 tailgate on and need to due some minor fab work but with very little work it will go on.
this is the biggest pain i ever had to do when i had my bronco... but its simple, just take the plate off of the inside of the tailgate (tailgate could be up or down, down is easier), find the motor, unplug it and remove the couple bolts that are holding it in. careful not to cut yourself there isn't much room to work. the hardest part is getting it back in. good luck!
There's a couple different types of tailgates found on dump/tipper trucks. The most common type hinges from the top and latches on the bottom. The latches can be either manual release or air release (usually from a button inside the cab). When the dump body is tipped back, gravity causes the tailgate to open, and the commodity is also dumped out of the bed by the force of gravity. Another variation of this type of tailgate opens to the side. Some can even be converted to work either way. There's also the lift gate tailgate. At the top of the tailgate are two hydraulic arms which push out and cause the whole tailgate assembly to lift up. The vehicle operator can also opt not to use the lift gate feature, and it'll then operate in the same fashion as the first tailgate I described.
door ajar switch/switches are no good, in the glass latch or tailgate latch, or both. your rear wiper does'nt work either because of this. the switches cannot be purchased seperately, you have to buy the latches as they are integral. have 1 at my shop now, glass latch assm. is 334.37, & tailgate latches are 94.75 ea. hope this helps.
I have a 91 bronco and I've had problems myself with the rear window. First check the fuse panel to see if the fuse for the rear window is blown. I believe its a 20 amp. Also if the interior switch and the key switch on the tailgate both dont work, try pushing in on the tailgate while trying to move the window down or up
In most cases the window is not stuck. The fact is, the tailgate is not make enough contact with the sensor(s) that prevent you from rolling up the rear window when the tailgate is open. To roll up the window, first try shutting the tailgate with some force, as opposed to lightly, to ensure that it is shut well enough to make contact with the sensor. If the window still will not roll up, with the tailgate closed, push forceably on the upper drivers side corner of the tailgate, while you turn the key to roll up the window. If this does not work, start checking the typical electronics, fuse, wiring, etc...
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Occasionally the wiper motor will seize up and stop working. I just solved the rear wiper problem today. The door latches on the tailgate of the Windstar have sensors in them. If the sensors aren't working the circuitry thinks the tailgate is open and won't turn on the wipers. Whether you have to change the wiper motor or not you have to remove the panel on the inside. It is simple, unscrew the loop closure from the inside. Get something flat and thin, slide it under the edge of the panel, get your fingers inside and sharply pull down, the panel will pop off. You can see the wires running to the tailgate latches. Because the drivers side gets more road grim do this side first. Reach in and disconnect the connection clip unplugging the sensor. Close the tailgate and try the rear wiper. If it doesn't work, disconnect the passenger side and try the wiper again. When you go to reinstall the panel cover on the tailgate, remove all the little plastic plugs from the holes in the tailgate and put them in the slots on the panel. A pair of pliers helps remove them. Slide panel over manual door lock button and push up on panel and it will snap in place. You may have to give it a hammer with the palm of your hand. Hope this helps. Worked for me.
The best way, is to go inside, remove the tailgate's interior trim and moulding. After removing the plastic sheeting, you can then access the regulator (the scissor looking part with the motor). Remove the bolts that hold the regulator. Now very carefully without bending in or out, because you could break the back-light (rear glass), lower the whole assembly down into the tailgate. You may have to jiggle it up and down slightly. When the glass has cleared the frame, pull on the cables that activate the latches. With the help of an assistant on the outside lower the tailgate. Now you can work on the problem with ease. Inspect the regulator, wiring etc. for wear and tear as well as rust.Good luck!
You could try looking at the wiring from the car body to the tailgate - more often than not the wire has broken with the opening and closing of the tailgate.
From the fuse panel, hot in accy or run, comes a light blue with black wire, to the tailgate window switch in the dash. From this switch, two black wires go to ground, and a pink with light green and a pink with light blue wire go forward to the tailgate key switch. From the fuse panel, hot at all times, comes a black with white wire, also to the tailgate key switch. From the tailgate key switch comes a yellow with red wire directly to the tailgate window motor. Also from the tailgate key switch comes a tan with black wire, to a tailgate latch switch, and from there a red with yellow wire to the tailgate window motor. That latch switch functions to keep the window motor from working if the gate is not completely closed, and from what I hear, with wear and tear over time, begins to malfunction just from getting out of reach. If your window quit working, start there. Otherwise, it would be impossible to explain how those switches work together in the same circuit without a drawing, so I must recommend the website of helmdirect, for the electrical and troubleshooting manual I'm referring to, which I bought there, for the same vehicle. Best $25 I've spent.