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As the momentum of the wave moves towards the shallow shore, the bottom slows due to friction with the seabed, while the top keeps moving. Eventually, the top of the wave curls over in a crest, that breaks on to the beach.
I believe a wave breaks when its steepness exceeds its height and speed.
Nature
the homonym for wave is waive
The crest.
beach.
That is called a breaker.
As the momentum of the wave moves towards the shallow shore, the bottom slows due to friction with the seabed, while the top keeps moving. Eventually, the top of the wave curls over in a crest, that breaks on to the beach.
it is called 'surfer"
period = reciprocal of frequency = 1/5 = 0.2 seconds
It is breaks
Mainly the strenght of the wind passing over the water. Also the fetch, or distance that a wave has to develope. Finally, the beach profile will also effect the size and how the wave breaks.
I believe a wave breaks when its steepness exceeds its height and speed.
Nature
The energy dissipates, meaning that as the wave breaks, it will eventually convert to heat.The energy dissipates, meaning that as the wave breaks, it will eventually convert to heat.The energy dissipates, meaning that as the wave breaks, it will eventually convert to heat.The energy dissipates, meaning that as the wave breaks, it will eventually convert to heat.
Pyroclastic Flow
beach