it is called 'surfer"
tsunami
a tide or a large surf wave
This phenomenon is called a "swash." It occurs when a wave moves up a beach or shore.
A swash is the rush of seawater up on the beach after the breaking of a wave.
gravity pulling it back towards the ocean as the wave recedes.
The water that moves up the beach in a wave flows back out to sea due to gravity pulling it back towards the ocean. This process is known as backwash and it helps to reset the balance of water levels between the beach and the ocean.
When a wave breaks and rushes up the beach, it is called "swash."
As waves approach the shoreline, their speed decreases due to friction with the seabed. This causes the waves to steepen and increase in height, leading to the wave breaking as it reaches the shore. The energy of the wave is dissipated, resulting in the water rushing up the beach before flowing back into the ocean.
A constructive wave is a powerful wave that surges up the beach with a powerful swash. This is the forward movement of the wave up the beach. It has a weak backwash, which is the backward movement of water down a beach when a wave has broken. Characteristics are: .swash is stronger than the backwash. .Has a low gradient. .Has low energy. .Produces gentle beach profile .Other names are: storm, surfing or plunging waves. .Typical off the SW coast of the UK.
When a wave hits the coast, it will break due to the shallowing of the water. The energy in the wave will be dissipated as the wave breaks, causing the water to surge up the beach. This can lead to erosion of the coast and the movement of sediment along the shoreline.
period = reciprocal of frequency = 1/5 = 0.2 seconds
When people, surf they bring a board into an ocean, or any body of water with waves. Then they paddle into the waves, and stand up. Once they stand up, they maneuver through the wave, and perform tricks. Once the wave is fully crashed, or no longer surfable, they get off the wave.