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A man is standing on the shore of a beach up to his knees in water Every 5 seconds a wave breaks on him What is the period of the wave?
period = reciprocal of frequency = 1/5 = 0.2 seconds
Parts of water that don't move along with a wave?
Water does not move with a wave believe it or not. It moves up and down with the wave but a wave is just energy moving through something.
What happens when a deep-water wave strikes the bottom of the ocean?
waves get slower and higher then they break
What causes an ocean wave to slow down?
because the water gets deeper. so the swells in the ocean are more frequent but smaller since theres more water
Describe how material is transported along a beach?
Material can be transported along a beach via longshore drift;Waves approach beach at an angleMaterial is pushed up the beach by the swash in the same direction as the wave approachAs the water runs back down the beach the backwash drags material down at right angles to the beach lineOver a period of time sediment moves in this zig-zag fashion down the coast.Material can also be transported along a beach at low tide when the sand dries out by the wind (usually forming sand dunes)Material may also be transported up and down a beach by attrition. Waves may have fairly high energy so will pick up material and may loose energy further up the beach and therefore deposit it there.Might also be moved by saltation (waves carry slightly smaller sediment in the same way as attrition)Waves may be swash-aligned (waves hit beach straigt on, so sediment moved up and down beach) or drift-aligned (waves hit beach at right angles causing longshore drift)
What is water from a wave rushing up a beach?
it is called 'surfer"
Water from a wave rushing up the beach?
a tide or a large surf wave
What do you call when water from a wave rushes up a beach?
This phenomenon is called a "swash." It occurs when a wave moves up a beach or shore.
What is swash in geography?
A swash is the rush of seawater up on the beach after the breaking of a wave.
Water that moves up the beach in a wave flows back out to sea due to?
gravity pulling it back towards the ocean as the wave recedes.
What is water that moves up the beach in a wave flows back out to sea due to what?
The water that moves up the beach in a wave flows back out to sea due to gravity pulling it back towards the ocean. This process is known as backwash and it helps to reset the balance of water levels between the beach and the ocean.
When a wave breaks and rushes up the beach what is it called?
When a wave breaks and rushes up the beach, it is called "swash."
What happens to waves as they approach the shore line?
As waves approach the shoreline, their speed decreases due to friction with the seabed. This causes the waves to steepen and increase in height, leading to the wave breaking as it reaches the shore. The energy of the wave is dissipated, resulting in the water rushing up the beach before flowing back into the ocean.
What is a constructive wave?
A constructive wave is a powerful wave that surges up the beach with a powerful swash. This is the forward movement of the wave up the beach. It has a weak backwash, which is the backward movement of water down a beach when a wave has broken. Characteristics are: .swash is stronger than the backwash. .Has a low gradient. .Has low energy. .Produces gentle beach profile .Other names are: storm, surfing or plunging waves. .Typical off the SW coast of the UK.
What happens when a wave hits the coast?
When a wave hits the coast, it will break due to the shallowing of the water. The energy in the wave will be dissipated as the wave breaks, causing the water to surge up the beach. This can lead to erosion of the coast and the movement of sediment along the shoreline.
A man is standing on the shore of a beach up to his knees in water Every 5 seconds a wave breaks on him What is the period of the wave?
period = reciprocal of frequency = 1/5 = 0.2 seconds
What do people do when surfing?
When people, surf they bring a board into an ocean, or any body of water with waves. Then they paddle into the waves, and stand up. Once they stand up, they maneuver through the wave, and perform tricks. Once the wave is fully crashed, or no longer surfable, they get off the wave.
