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If an appliance does not work at all when you plug it in and turn the switch on the appliance circuit is not on.
By 'switching on an electrical appliance' we are completing (closing) the electrical circuit, allowing electricity to flow and the device to work.
A fuse
A circuit with a separate path for each load is a dedicated circuit. <<>> A circuit with a separate path for each load is a parallel circuit.
No current flows in the circuit when the circuit is open, as in when the appliance is switched off. The voltage is on the "hot" side of the switch when it is in the open position but the neutral is not energized until the switch is closed.
It will most likely be damaged beyond repair! Circuit boards will burn out as will motor/relays. And it could start a fire!
The appliance's circuit is open.
If an appliance does not work at all when you plug it in and turn the switch on the appliance circuit is not on.
You will burn up your appliance!!!!!
If it is a 32-amp circuit you can use any appliance that takes less than 32 amps. That includes a 15-amp appliance. All appliances fed from that circuit must use 32 amps or less in total.
By 'switching on an electrical appliance' we are completing (closing) the electrical circuit, allowing electricity to flow and the device to work.
A fuse
16A
A circuit with a separate path for each load is a dedicated circuit. <<>> A circuit with a separate path for each load is a parallel circuit.
Most things will work without any problem. Some things will work for a while then burn out. Some will burn out immediately. HOWEVER, as long as reversed polarity exists and the home appliance is plugged in, that appliance will be "live" even if turned off. It is important to wire things correctly, use appropriate resistors, and not overload fuses or circuit breakers.
No, the applied 110 volt is too high for a 3 volt appliance. The appliance would burn out right away.
Notification Appliance Circuit