Depends on whether it is indoors or not, and if outdoors, what the summertime ambient temperature is normally. Ozone is best used in conjunction with bromine salts, where ozone does not stay in the pool water, but activates the bromine to hypbromous acid (as the primary disinfectant). Bromine has a lower vapor pressure than chlorine at any temperature, so it tends not to corrode nearby metals (as much). Bromine can usually be good for six months or more, with ozone to reactivate it. Chlorine has the benefits of being simple, and being readily available. Ozone can be used with salt-based pools too.
Ozone is the best choice for an indoor pool. You will still have to have a very small amount of residual chlorine to supplement the ozone system.
Yes you can use an Ozone generator and a Chlorine generator together. The Ozone generator will actually extend the life of the cell on the Chlorine generator because the ozone takes care of the bulk of the oxidation workload, thus the Chlorine generator does not need to be run as hard.
Ozone is rarely used as a primary pool treatment. If ozone is used, bromine is the steriliant of choice, since you only need to add it a few times a year (lower vapor pressure than chlorine). Ozone reactivates the bromine, and is destroyed in the filter. Ozone is hazardous for lungs. Using ozone tends to reduce the THM and HAA that chlorine can form in pool water. It can also reduce the amount of water "blown down", since fewer chemicals need to be used. And fewer chemical deliveries. When you turn power off, ozone is gone. Chlorine stays, and stays hazardous.
This depends on the size of the pool. Generally, when you buy chlorine, it should say on the bag or box how much to use for what size pool.
Not really. Most disease transmission in pools is swimmer to water to swimmer. The disease carrying organisms never go through the filter system before infecting another swimmer. Consequently, an adequate pool sanitizer must be present where the germs are, out in the pool. Chlorine, bromine, PHMB (Baquacil, etc) all meet this requirement. Chlorine is by far the fastest acting and most effective sanitizer, but all three meet the minimum requirement of providing sanitation where the germs meet the people. By contrast, ozone does not. Unlike chlorine gas, ozone gas is not very water soluble. And -- though it surprises most people -- ozone gas is considerably more toxic, if inhaled, than chlorine gas. Consequently, ozone systems must be designed so that no undissolved ozone gas reaches the pool, where it could escape and endanger swimmers. In Europe, where commercial pool ozone systems are sometimes very high capacity, an ozone removal stage is added to the filtration system. But, in the US, the problem is usually solved by making sure the ozone system is so small, that no ozone can ever remain in the water that's returned to the pool. Either way, ozone is never present in water that's in the pool; it's only present in water that's in the pipes. Consequently, ozone systems can never provide primary sanitation, protecting swimmers out in the pool, where the germs are.
Chlorine, bromine, uv, ozone.
you should use them to get the chlorine out of your hair
Ozone for pool sanitization is most cost effective (including consumption of electrical power, some of which is still fossil fuel derived) when it is used to "reactivate" the actual sanitizer in the pool. Ozone will reactivate bromine compounds to hypobromous acid, and bromine has a lower vapor pressure than chlorine, so you can use less bromine if you add ozone, than you would ever be able to get away with for chlorine (because ozone and chlorine are not synergistic in the same way... or at all). This means less hardness change due to chemical additions... more chemical savings. There are pools that use ozone for the primary (pre-filter) and secondary (in the pool itself) sterilant. They are made from special materials (especially the pumping / filtration), take special pool coatings (regular paints fail quickly), and take a much more expensive ozone generator (both to buy and operate). Most eco-friendly of all, is not to have a private pool, but to use a community pool instead. It is safer than most public bodies of water... if the pool is well maintained.
To add chlorine to your pool, first test the water to determine the current chlorine levels. Use chlorine tablets or liquid chlorine based on the pool's needs. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for dosage and application method, typically dispersing the chlorine around the perimeter of the pool to ensure even distribution.
If ozone is being used as the primary steriliant, a dissolved ozone level of around 0.1 ppm should be sufficient to maintain clarity, without too much "air stripping" of ozone as divers enter the water, or swimmers leave. Perhaps a better measurement would be simply to maintain an ORP / redox of 500 mV or higher. Using bromine as the primary steriliant, and reactivating it with ozone is probably superior in terms of the size of ozone generator required. Bromine has a lower vapor pressure than chlorine, so it could be months between additions of makeup bromine. Monitor / maintain your hardness and pH as you would any pool. Since you aren't adding chlorine compounds with strong effects on both, this should be much less often.
If you are getting a low reading of chlorine in your above ground pool, you should add the appropriate amount of chlorine to get it back to the correct level. This is important to keep your pool running at maximum abilities.
No Ultraviolet uses light Ozone uses O3 which is an oxygen molecule normally Oxygen exists as O2. O3 is corrosive Answer Ozone is produced by passing ambient air past UltraViolet lamps. This produces Ozone gas, which is injected into the water as an Oxidizer. Ozone reduces the need for Chlorine by 60-80% as it becomes the primary oxidizer for the water.