You dont neccisarily have to, because they wil hatch naturally by themselves. If something goes HORRIBLY wrong, try to help crack the shell only.
Put it in the fridge. If you are hatching it, then use an incubator.
Keep it in a nest box with a lamp made for fowl-egg hatching.
If you have obtained fertilized eggs, they can be sucessfully incubated, but the chicks MUST be kept warm after hatching. Recommended temperature after hatching is 95-99 degrees F the first week and decrease by 5 degrees each week.
never
No. In fact they will weigh slightly less when hatching. The weight loss is due to loss of moisture from the porous egg shell for 21 days during development. This weight loss can be reduced with proper relative humidity in the incubator. The lower the humidity surrounding the developing egg the greater the mortality rate of the embryo.
You need to start with a fertilized fresh egg. An incubator, thermometer and hydrometer would also be handy. You also need to be able to devote at least 21 days to the care of the hatching eggs. A live broody hen would do all this for you.
As soon as it is hatched! But, if not, within 25 minutes.
to do that you have to press A to pick up the egg then go to the incubator and then press a to drop it on the incubator wait in till the egg is a chick
There should be cracks in the egg but they are super small cracks.
An incubator is used to hatch fertile eggs artificially. Nothing will hatch from an unfertilised egg.
Egg racks or trays are used in an incubator with an automatic turning tray. the tray holds the rack allowing for the 'tilting or rotation of the egg' on a timed basis, emulating the natural movement of the hen. Eggs not rotated have a lower hatch rate and a higher mortality rate upon hatching. (the embreyo has a tendency to stick to the shell).
Any non-viable eggs need to be removed, and whatever can be cleaned up should be.