With limited information available as to the type of equipment that is to be grounded it is always safe to place the ground wire on the equipments frame. This will not be grounding but bonding which will keep all equipment within the electrical circuit on the same potential which should be zero.
The neutral is the ground The neutral is NOT the ground. The ground is defined by a third bare or green wire in some cases. Look in the back of the receptacles junction box. See if the ground wire is bonded to the box but was not long enough to bring it out to the receptacle. With a tester you can check to see if the box is grounded. Place the testers red probe on to the black wire and the black probe on to the electrical box if it is a metallic box. If a voltage is noted, then the box is grounded. When the receptacle is reinstalled the ground will be picked up through the mounting screws. Or you can extend the ground wire at the back of the box and connect it to the green ground screw on the receptacle. If you have any doubts about an answer that you get, check the answerer's bio by clicking on their name to check their qualifications.
If you are referring to a porcelain or plastic ceiling light fixture most do not have a place to connect the ground wire. You cannot ground these type fixtures. Just connect the ground wire to the mounting crossbar and forget about connecting it to the light itself. It is on the ceiling and will never be touched unless you change the bulb and then you will have the switch in the off position. It is perfectly safe.
You have to purchase a new cord assembly that is designed specifically for ranges. Hardware stores usually carry these cords. Tell the salesperson what you want to do with it and they should give you the right one. On the back of the stove you will find a terminal block with three screws in it. Your newly purchased cord will have 4 wires in it. Red, Black, White, Green. Connect the red wire to the first terminal screw (left). Next the white to the center screw and finally the black to the last terminal screw (right). You are now left with one green wire to connect. There might be a jumper strap from the white wire "neutral" terminal position to the chassis frame of the stove. This must be removed. There should be a ground lug that is bolted to the chassis of the stove. If there isn't a ground lug install one in the place where the jumper strap connected to the chassis frame. There might be a ground lug in the four wire stove kit that you bought, if not buy a #6 ground lug. Put the green wire into the lug and tighten. Make sure the stove receptacle that you are plugging into is turned OFF. Plug the stove into the receptacle. Turn the breaker back on. Stove should be up and running.
From the standpoint of basic functionality, you can put the switch anywhere. In a series circuit, there is only one path for current flow. If you open the switch, you interrupt that pathway and turn the circuit "off."There may be practical reasons to put the switch in one place or another, however. Sometimes it's put in a particular place in the circuit for manufacturing reasons. In other circuits, safety may dictate that you put the switch in a particular place: in a ground-referenced circuit for example, you may want to put the switch so that one side is at the ground point.
First of all,be very carefull.Hire someone if you can afford to.( I never did).Trust what noboby tells you about wire colors and where to place them on the device.Buy a cheap volt-ohm meter. You will use it in the future- great envestment! - $15 bucks. 240 volts (household), will be two "hots", one neutal and a ground(probably bare). read the device it will say LINE and LINE for the hot wires and neutral for neutral. It should have a green screw on it for your bare ground. Read about the use of your meter. You will think that you are Tom Edison before your next project. Good luck and be safe........Jim.
The metal that will turn green in vinegar is copper. Many people place copper in vinegar as a way to give it a very fast patina.
Actually if you take a penny and "water" it or place it in water within a couple days it will become green.
No. Green should always signify the ground wire.
A displacement reaction takes place. Iron being a more reactive element than copper displaces copper from its compound. Ferrous Sulphate which is green in color and copper a reddish brown element are formed. So, blue color of copper sulphate fades away and the solution becomes light green. Copper is deposited on the grayish iron filings.
When an iron nail is placed in a copper sulphate solution, iron displaces copper from copper sulphate solution forming iron sulphate, which is green in colour.Therefore, the blue colour of copper sulphate solution fades and green colour appears.
The green material on copper is oxidation. On iron or steel it is called rust, on copper and bronze is it called a patina. Unlike the rust on steel and iron that damages the metal, rust on copper, bronze, and even aluminum can protect the under-laying metal. You can even make the green different shades by applying different oxidizers, which some artists use in place of painting the metal.
There is no well-known "Green-penny hypothesis" as far as I can tell. I suppose some student every so often creates their own hypothesis about why pennies turn green, but they are certainly not well-known, or even slightly-known.
The reaction takes place resulting in the formation of Iron sulphate(light green coloured) and copper(solid). The equation is :- Fe(s) + CuSO4(aq.) ------------> FeSO4(aq.) + Cu(s)
Jordan
A displacement reaction takes place. Iron being a more reactive element than copper displaces copper from its compound. Ferrous Sulphate which is green in color and copper a reddish brown element are formed. So, blue color of copper sulphate fades away and the solution becomes light green. Copper is deposited on the grayish iron filings.
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