Disconnect the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect. This will erase any trouble codes stored in the car's computer. If everything is okay, the CHECK ENGINE light will stay off. If everthing is okay, it wouldn't be on. If you disconnect the basttery on the newer toyotas, you may blow the air bag. The is no reset switch, get it diagnosed. Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. This is an needed in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights
on the driver side by the front speaker up underneath is a switch that turns off the check engine light.
There is a switch behind the left front speaker that resets it.
with a rev counter
There isn't a reset switch. The light is reset with a scan tool after the cause of the trouble code has been repaired.
An auto parts store can reset it for you.
"Check Engine" light comes on when you turn ignition switch on and should go off when engine cranks.
There are pages and pages of things that can cause a check engine light. You need to have it checked with a scantool. Then the code can be diagnosed and repaired.
If you go to AutoZone .com and check with there repair manuals on-line you can find the engine codes for your tracker
You check your engine or go to a Auto Shop
It is possible that a Subaru Check Engine Code #12 is a bad starter switch. This is usually the starter relay switch malfunction code for Subaru.
There is a switch close to the steering column that turns it off.
P0520 Code Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction