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The waves reaching shore are generally independent of the local wind conditions; they originate far out to sea and have too much momentum for local winds to reverse their flow.

In general terms, winds on the open ocean generate waves because of the small amount of friction between the air and the surface of the water. The formation, combination, and propagation of those waves are functions of the wind speed, direction and (growing) height of the waves. Furthermore, the distance to land (called the "fetch") can allow, to a point, continued growth of the waves.

Upon approaching a shoreline, the accumulated momentum simply overwhelms the force of the wind blowing in the other direction. Even the strongest local winds, blowing offshore, cannot reverse the progress of the waves, though it can lead to spectacular instances of spray blowback as waves break.

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Q: Why do waves rush to the shore even when the wind is in the opposite direction?
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