Typically the silver screws are neutral, the brass screws are for "hot" (if there are silver screws)
There are two on each side because that gives you options.
You can feed into the plug box and connect to one pair of screws, then subfeed the next circuit using the other pair.
OR
you can separate the circuits so that the top and bottom halves of the plug are either on a separate circuit or one half can be on a switch. The options are there if you want to use them. To separate the top and bottom half you'd need to break away the jumper between the top and bottom halves of the plug.
I'm first off assuming this is a brand new plug, not a replacement. Okay. Ground first(green). Make sure you've got enough bare copper to wrap around the bottom screw. Then, strip and wrap the white around either of the silver screws on the side of the outlet. Finally, connect the black to the hot side (brass colored screws). And you should be all set.
The modern standard Italian 230/240V grounded household plug is the Type F CEE 7/4 (German "Schuko" 16 A/250 V grounded) plug. This is a symmetrical plug with grounding clips on the sides and Live/neutral on the pins- as the plug is symmetrical, the location of L(black or brown) and N (blue) wires is "Don't Care" and can be either. The ground (yellow-green) is connected to the side plates. The E/F hybrid configuration is asymmetrical (polarized) the ground hole on the plug makes it impossible to insert the plug into an F type socket with a grounding pin in more than one way. Insertion into an E type socket is ambiguous so the N and L conductors may be interchanged in the E socket.
I assume your talking about the rectangular plug right at the alternator, and that your new Alt came with a short repair harness, the 2 heavy wires are BAT and the slim and likely white one is Tachometer AC sense, likely that 3 of the old ones were Bat test the old connector with a test light to see which of them have power to them.
There is no configuration with that amount of wires. Proper connection requires three wires and a ground.
Have the outlet changed to match the configuration of the dryer plug.
you put the wires under the screws and tighten them
remove the speaker covers from fear deck. remove the four screws that hold the speakers in the rear deck. four screws hold each speaker in place. unplug the wires from the connecters. if aftermarket speakers cut after plug and splice new speaker wires into existing factory wires. reverse the procedure to install new speakers.
No but, if you leave a plug wire disconnected and not grounded while running the engine, you can damage the ignition module.
Unplug all the spark plug wires. then loosen the screws holding the distributor on, remove it, put the new one on and screw it in, then replace the spark plug wires
Remove your glove compartment. Look to the right side inside. Look for 2 screws, remove 2 screws. Lift up on wires, unplug wires from resistor. Plug in new resistor into wires. Screw the screws back in, reinstall glove compartment.
The coils are held in place with two small screws. Remove the spark plug wires making note of where each wire goes, then remove the screws and pull the coil straight out. To replace the coil line up the connectors and push the coil in place, then put the screws back in and reconnect the spark plug wires.
The spark plugs and wires are under the cover plate on top of the engine. The cover is held on with six philps screws.
Behind the glovebox toward the firewall, you will see a set of wires (4-I think) that pug into a plug with two small screws holding it in. This is it, remove the plug and screws and pull straight down.
Distributor panel?? If you mean distributor cap, you first move the air intake going to the throttle body. Mark all spark plugs wires with the correct plug and unplug each one at the spark plug. Next you will find 2 screws holding the distributor cap. Remove both screws and and lift off the cap and wires while the wires are still connected to the cap. Take the spark plug wires off and place them onto the new cap in the same position you removed them. Put new cap on and tighten the screws and replace the wires to the correct spark plug. You should replace the wires and rotor button when you do this also.
Remove the 4 screws holding the top cover. You can then get to the plug wires and the plugs.
There is a plate on top of the engine with four Allen head screws, remove that and the plugs are there, you will need i belive a 10mm socket to take the plug wires off. This is how they are on a 2007 SS i am not sure about what model you have.
Take the spark plug out, push back into it's pocket, set the spark plug on a grounded piece of metal, have someone crank the engine while the spark plug is grounded (but don't hold onto the spark plug, common sense right?) if a spark appears between the little arm the spark plug works, if it doesn't spark, replace with a new plug, and if the new plug doesn't start you have a faulty wire.