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There are two main factors that affect the break of a certain wave. They are -
1. The depth of the wave where it is breaking. Every waves breaks on a spot of the sand where the depth (the bottom of the wave to the sand) of the wave is half as deep as the wave is tall. For example.: if the wave is depth is 1 meter deep, then the height of the wave will be 2 metres.
2. The speed of the wave. If the wave is travelling at a high speed, then the barrel of the wave will shape like a lying-down almond. Reduce the speed of the wave and the barrel will be shaped like a circle. Decrease the speed even more, and you will observe that the barrel is more like a standing-up almond. Lessen the speed even more and the foam (white, rough part of the wave) will slide down the face of the wave. This is the slowest breaking wave form you can get.
Waves come in sets, which are effected by gravitational forces which are controlled by the moon. Each set includes roughly 6-8 waves, with the waves getting bigger throughout the set.
Unbroken waves, which usually occur in high tide, is where the wave is too small to break, forcing it to remain unbroken. But there are some beaches where no waves. This is probably because the bottom is too shallow, the beach doesn't get affected by the moon, or there are large rocks underneath the water, causing the surface water to remain calm.
Yet, tsunamis and rogue waves are a totally different story. They are usually triggered by underwater earthquakes or volcanoes, or even small meteorites.
Wiki User
∙ 14y ago
Wiki User
∙ 16y agoAs the water gets shallow near the shore the lower part slows down, but the upper part slows down less, so eventually the top overtakes the bottom of the wave .
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Why do break in shallow water?
Waves break in shallow water because the bottom of the wave decreases speed. The top of the wave will overtake the bottom and spill forward and starts to break the wave.
At what depth do waves break?
When the depth is less than 1/2 a wave height, the wave crests fall forward, forming surf. It is said to Break.
What kinds of wave do surfers look for?
at least head high and beginning to break from the crest at only one point and continung to break from that beginning break point in an orderly fashion across the rest of the wave...
How long does it take for a wave to break?
something something something
What happens to the time difference between primary and secondary wave as the distance traveled gets longer?
the secondary wave break up
What causes a breaking wave?
Waves out in the ocean don't break because they are in deep water, waves break when they reach shallower water and so the bottom of the wave catches on the bottom and causes a bit of friction which slows the wave down and cause it to fall over itself, which is breaking
When will the heat wave in South Carolina break?
Tomorrow at 3:47 in the afternoon.
What can you throw off the highest buliding and it wont break?
wave paper or tissue
Can a tsunami break your bones?
A tsunami is a wave. Waves alone rarely break legs. But waves can throw you into things, or throw things into you. And those things can certainly break bones.
How do you hide money?
break a hole behind the wave and put a painting or poster the cover it.
Why do waves form breakers as they move from deep water into shallow water?
The waves start off tall, when the water gets shallow like it is near the shore the waves fall and break. waves breakdown because the floor becomes to shallow for the waves so the bottom of the wave hits the shallow floor and slows it down but the top part of the wave continues and falls because the bottom part is behind it.
Is it possible to wave surf in the middle of the ocean without a break because of the sea floor?
No, it is not possible because what causes a wave to break and become rideable is the sudden change in deapth of the ocean bottom floor , from deep to shallow, which only really happens when you get to a land mass.
