The waves get angry when they see people swimming in the water so they grow bigger and bigger to kill them.
sound wave amplitude is one example
Constructive Interference
an ocean wave approaching the shore at an angle
There are many factors that determine the direction that waves take. Out in deep water, wind and surface currents affect the direction of waves. When you get closer to the coast the shape and contour of the earth's surface affects the wave's direction more.As a wave becomes shallow it slows down. If the wave is at an angle to the shallow part of the shore, the wave bends and becomes more parallel to the beach. Also most beaches are not actually straight, they curve so there are parts of the wave that are parallel to the shore.
To estimate the speed of a wave, a person can estimate the distance the wave is from shore and then time how long the wave takes to reach the shore. For example, if a wave is one mile out and it takes one minute to reach shore, the wave is traveling at 60 miles per hour.
Tsunami
When the wave approach the coastline, the height of the wave changes because of the density in the water between the top of the breaker and the sand .So when the wave gets closer to the shore it gets smaller in till it tumbles over.
sound wave amplitude is one example
There is a circular current inside the waves and as they come closer to the shore the previous wave is pulled up into it and this gives the initial wave more height because they are now fused.
The amplitude (The height of the wave) of the wave increases as the sound gets louder.
When the waves come closer to the land they rub against the sea floor, and friction causes the waves to slow down and build up from behind creating huge piles of water to crash on the land A tsunami spreads out from an earthquake's epicenter and speeds across the ocean. In the open ocean, the height of the wave is low. As a tsunami approaches shallow water, the wave grows into a mountain of water.
because when a wave breaks onto the shore it gets sucked back into the ocean where the wind will turn it into a new wave, or swell.
Constructive Interference
A tsunami is caused by two plates of the earth colliding and rubbing together and building up pressure that eventually bursts to create a wave. there are multiple waves.The wave is really long offshore but when it gets closer to the coast line, it gets bigger. the top is thinner then the bottom. once its up there, its being supported by gravity.
The large water waves created near the land's shore are caused from fast moving, but small-amplitude waves created deeper in the ocean. Conceptually, the velocity of a water wave in deep water is dependent on its wavelength. As the wave nears the shore, its wavelength gets smaller and smaller, therefore its velocity gets slower and slower. Well, a wave's velocity multiplied by its energy density is a constant, so if the velocity of a water wave gets smaller, its energy density must get larger. This increase of energy density is seen as an increase in the height of the wave.
The wave would slow down as it approaches the shore.
The wave would slow down as it approaches the shore.