It shouldn't. The open end of a non connected neutral should have the same potential as the voltage feeding the circuit. The only time a voltage will show is when the return neutral is tested with a meter to the neutral bar or the ground return bar. It will then show what the supply voltage to the connected load is. Once this neutral is connected to the neutral bar there will be no voltage shown across the test meter between the neutral and the neutral bar or the ground bar.
To control a light with a switch, the switch has to be connected in series with the light fixture.
Red is hot Green is ground White is neutral
No, the neutral is only needed at the load. This is where the connection is made to the light fixture.
Based on your description it is very likely that either the red wire or black wire is switched and the other is on all the time. In most cases the light of the fan, if it has a light, is connected to the switched wire and the fan is connected to the unswitched wire. This allows you to turn off the light while allowing the fan to remain running. There is no way to know without testing which wire is switched. The white wire is the neutral, connected to the white, or neutral, or common conductor of the fixture. There should also be a bare or green wire in the box to connect to the ground wire of the fixture.
If both wires are black then the one with the writing is the neutral wire. If the two wires are black and white then the white one is the neutral.
You have some serious wiring problems, for sure. My first guess is that your grounding conductor and neutral are touching somewhere and your ground is acting as the neutral when the neutral is disconnected. The light coming on when the hair dryer is used is another mystery. You need to hire a competent electrician to trouble shoot these problems.
Use a small light bulb, such as 25-50 watt. Connect 120 VAC power to the big L1 terminal. Connect the big T1 terminal to the light bulb. Connect the neutral to the light bulb. The light bulb will be OFF. Connect another 120 VAC wire to the control input terminal #3. Connect another neutral to the control input terminal #4. The light bulb will now be ON. See the drawing at the bottom of: http://www.power-io.com/products/dda5075100.htm
Check the neutral connections. An open neutral or a high resistance neutral can cause this type of condition. The obvious place to start your search is in the switch boxes that connects to the light fixture.
You don't say "turn off" or turn on". Light should be connected black to black and white to white and ground to ground. If you connect white to ground it will work, but you are then using the ground wire for an unintended purpose. Neutral is bonded to Ground at the panel. Current on ground wire could cause ground loops and may cause GFCI to trip if you have them in your house.
If you want to physically do it, connect up a simple circuit with wires, a battery and a small bulb. Put the object in the circuit (touching the wires) - if the bulb light, its a conductor.
There are several things that can cause your brake light fuse to blow and keep your 1994 Ford F3 50 locked in park. The most common cause is a malfunctioning neutral safety switch.
Repair or replace your reverse, neutral safety switch.
To light a light bulb you need to connect to a source of electricity like a battery or an electrical outlet.
Use a test light as always, you can find one at Canadian tire, connect it to ground first tho then use the light by touching the terminals on a fuse
Black is hot and white is neutral.
The base of a lightbulb, the part that looks like a giant screw, connects the filament inside the light to the circuit. The center of the very bottom will connect with the ungrounded conductor (hot) and the screw part itself will connect to the grounded conductor (neutral). The black part between the two insulates them from each other.
If the light doesn't come on, rock the bike back and forth, then kick into first, then into neutral. It should always come on. It will not start unless it is in neutral.