This code is for the transmission The Direct clutch speed sensor. Have it tested most likely it has to be replaced. Had the same problem myself and managed to fix it by replacing the sensor.
You shorted it out, try protecting the wire ends from touching anything metal next time. the wire ends on the battery?
the computer component not tested by post rutine is the power supply
Yes....the MAP sensor tells the computer the amount of pressure or vacuum in the engine. This changes with throttle opening....etc. If the sensor is bad the settings will be bad. The MAP sensor can be tested for free at AutoZone.....and you can just take it in. They don't need it on the car.
The throttle position sensor can be tested by moving the throttle as observing the engine's response. If it is smooth and consistent, the sensor is functioning properly.
Hey Clifton==Takeit to Auto zone and have the codes read free. GoodluckJoe I have had mine tested and there is an error in the computer that gives false readings such as check engine, hot engine, etc. There is a computer chip that needs replacing, but I am told that the exact same number must be on the replacement computer chip. When each system is tested through the computer individually, it will test as ok, or in fine operation, yet the lights will continue to display randomly. This error could not be reset, only a replacement of the computer chip is what my mechanic told me to solve the problem. Until replacement, you will have to watch the fluids, temp, etc. manually (old fashioned way of checking the dipsticks & fluid levels) until this chip is repaired.
A m.a.p or manifold absolute pressure sensor can be tested with a scan tool on 1996 and later vehicles. This sensor is found only on some vehicles. Others have a m.a.f sensor (mass air flow). These sensors measure air flow before entering the engine and send the info to the pcm (computer). If the m.a.p sensor is faulty you may or may not have a "check engine" light illuminated.
Back probe both wires of the sensor and use an AC voltage setting or your readings will be bad
If it shows hot on the gauge and it is not hot, there is a gauge or sensor problem.
people try them out and get paied for it
Remove the starter and have it bench tested at your local auto parts store.
Its a better bet that your O2 sensor is fouled and/or needs replaced. You can go to AUTOZONE and have it tested for free. There are two; one in front of the sensor (this is the one to have tested), and a second between the catalytic converter and muffler. Don't make the mistake (sigh....) of finding that the sensor is bad and replacing the wrong one. The one in front of the catalytic converter is a bear to replace (usually) and if you've not replaced it, that's probably a good place to start. If that sensor is OK, test the back one. If both are OK, then you're looking at the converter. Good luck!
University of Iowa, Ames Iowa.
Yes, it does. I know, because mine is faulty on my Chevy Malibu and it was just replaced. My car would shut off at stop lights and even when driving down the road. It felt as if it was something electrical, or even a fuel issue. Two months of car repairs, which included tune-up, new fuel filter, and trip to the dealer (who couldn't figure out the problem), the mechanic did a google search and found that the crankshaft sensor goes out pretty frequently in Chevys. Hope this helps. Actually the answer to the original question is NO, the camshaft sensor does not replace the crankshaft sensor. On my 98 Malibu I have a camshaft sensor, a 7x crank sensor and a 24x crank sensor. My Malibu is not starting, we've tested the crank sensor and replaced the computer and still no fire to the plugs. The ignition module has been tested and it's good. There have been a lot of discussion about the Passlock system, but I reset that, now I'm turning towards the camshaft sensor which is suppose to control the fuel and the tach, but there may be other interactions with the computer that keeps it from firing the ignition system. The only indication the camshaft sensor is bad is I get no reading from the tach no the dash or from my OBDII computer reader. My book says the computer uses both crank and camshaft sensor when firing the injectors, but if the plugs don't fire, the injectors aren't the problem and I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and no joy.
yes but the cam sensor and the crank sensor work to geather so make sure to have it tested if you can to make sure wich is bad .
Your O2 sensor basically tells the computer how your engine and catalyst are preforming. A good one will sweep from 0 to 1 volt as the computer adjusts the engine from lean to rich. As it wears, it will function more slowly, or the voltage will be off slightly, thus causing your engine to lose performance. Since they are related directly to emissions, they will trigger your check engine light if they fail or become too far out of wack. They should be tested before replacing, because many other faults can cause them to have bad readings, but the computer doesn't know that, it only knows the reading is wrong. They are fairly simple to replace, they just unscrew from the exaust pipe, and unplug from the electrical. You will need a special O2 sensor socket, similar to a spark plug socket, to take them out.
Hi, I have had a intermittent check engine light that threw a code for an o2 sensor Took my 99 eclipse to the dealership to have car inspected and while driving there of course my cel and battery light appeared not at the same time within 3 minutes of each other. Battery light first then cel light. Dealership states that the o2 sensor was separated would this also cause a battery light to appear. Dealer is saying battery light is coming on because of computer but I just drove it home from the shop after replacing the o2 sensor mind you when I pulled in I had a battery light and check engine light on. Neither 2 lights appeared so I don't want to spend 800 plus on a computer if the o2 sensor could be the culprit of a battery light. Alternator and battery has been tested 4x know for a fact that it is not that!
At a dealer.
A VRS sensor and you can measure it with a DVOM on A/C Votlage by probing both wires and cranking the car.
Have engine computer tested
because they put a bomb inside it
Best way to diagnose is to scan for codes, but not having that I would guess the ignition module then the crank/cam sensor.
This answer should apply. You should have at least one sensor on or right near the thermostat housing. The one for the computer will be a 2 wire sensor, the one for the gauge could be 1 wire or 2. Doesnt this truck have a clutch fan though? What year is the engine? Newer engines will have a ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor that tells the computer how hot it is which in turn will send power to a relay that powers the fan. On GM products that sensor is usually on or near the thermostat housing. Some models have 2, one for the computer and one for the gauge. Both can be tested with an ohmeter. You would need a manual to cross reference the resistance readings with temperature definitions
A moisture sensor estimates the amount of water in the soil that is being tested. It works by measuring the soil's ability to conduct electricity, higher moisture means more conducting power.