Blown ignition fuse? If not, maybe a broken camshaft/gear?
This code is for the transmission The Direct clutch speed sensor. Have it tested most likely it has to be replaced. Had the same problem myself and managed to fix it by replacing the sensor.
You shorted it out, try protecting the wire ends from touching anything metal next time. the wire ends on the battery?
the computer component not tested by post rutine is the power supply
Yes....the MAP sensor tells the computer the amount of pressure or vacuum in the engine. This changes with throttle opening....etc. If the sensor is bad the settings will be bad. The MAP sensor can be tested for free at AutoZone.....and you can just take it in. They don't need it on the car.
If it shows hot on the gauge and it is not hot, there is a gauge or sensor problem.
Hey Clifton==Takeit to Auto zone and have the codes read free. GoodluckJoe I have had mine tested and there is an error in the computer that gives false readings such as check engine, hot engine, etc. There is a computer chip that needs replacing, but I am told that the exact same number must be on the replacement computer chip. When each system is tested through the computer individually, it will test as ok, or in fine operation, yet the lights will continue to display randomly. This error could not be reset, only a replacement of the computer chip is what my mechanic told me to solve the problem. Until replacement, you will have to watch the fluids, temp, etc. manually (old fashioned way of checking the dipsticks & fluid levels) until this chip is repaired.
no
A m.a.p or manifold absolute pressure sensor can be tested with a scan tool on 1996 and later vehicles. This sensor is found only on some vehicles. Others have a m.a.f sensor (mass air flow). These sensors measure air flow before entering the engine and send the info to the pcm (computer). If the m.a.p sensor is faulty you may or may not have a "check engine" light illuminated.
The throttle position sensor can be tested by moving the throttle as observing the engine's response. If it is smooth and consistent, the sensor is functioning properly.
people try them out and get paied for it
Back probe both wires of the sensor and use an AC voltage setting or your readings will be bad
Its a better bet that your O2 sensor is fouled and/or needs replaced. You can go to AUTOZONE and have it tested for free. There are two; one in front of the sensor (this is the one to have tested), and a second between the catalytic converter and muffler. Don't make the mistake (sigh....) of finding that the sensor is bad and replacing the wrong one. The one in front of the catalytic converter is a bear to replace (usually) and if you've not replaced it, that's probably a good place to start. If that sensor is OK, test the back one. If both are OK, then you're looking at the converter. Good luck!