It's probably a bad Powertrain Control Module (Main Computer). This is a note from one of my previous posts; Have you noticed the odometer display saying NO BU5? This actually means "no Bus", a communication term for a data route. It is saying that the dashboard sub-computer is not communicating with the main computer (PCM) which is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment, bolted just above the wheel well area. Check the 3 connectors to see if they are plugged in all the way. If they are, your PCM is probably bad (mine lasted 90k miles). This is something you can't replace yourself because the new one must be programmed with the mileage and VIN and other info by MOPAR before it's installed. Be careful, because when the PCM fails, your money pit (Durango) will start to suddenly stall at the worst times (Freeway, Boat launch, stop light on a one lane road) and not restart until you disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and then reconnect. Good luck! The dealer charged me $800 to replace mine. $500 for the part and $300 to diagnose the problem. And I told them it was a bad PCM when I brought it in.
Yes. The crank sensor tells the coil when to fire.
try crank position sensor and cam shaft sensor
Loose connection was my problem. On the inner-fender in one of the connection groups. Could also be a crank sensor not outputting properly, therefore not telling the coil to fire.
crank position sensor is bad
FROM WHAT I HAD READ, AFTER YOU HAVE TRYED EVERYTHING YOU CAN THINK OF THEN IT IS THE SENSOR..I WOULD SAY IF IT TURNING OVER AND NOT CRANKING AND YOU HAVE FIRE, IT WOULD BE THE SENSOR.....HOPE THIS HELPED
probably have a bad crank sensor, so the computer isn't being told when to fire the plugs
check timing chain/belt to see if it is broken
Since no year given I can only guess, check the crank sensor
Best way to diagnose is to scan for codes, but not having that I would guess the ignition module then the crank/cam sensor.
I have a 1995 dodge Dakota that didnt fire either first go for the cheaper step and check the fuses if its not that check the crank shaft sensor that is what mine turned out to be. it was only 60 dollars for the part and 5 minutes of my time.
If you have checked the coil pack to make sure it is getting power then it might be the ECU. I would make sure you check the engine codes too.
check ecm engine controle module icm ignition control module or crank angle censor if is a dhoc distributer if shoc>>>>JAC