The heat exchanger or copper tubes just above the burners are most likely sooted. Sooting means poor ventilation. Are the heater vents ~ either stackless or stack top ~ properly installed to code? See to it that the venting from the very top of the heater to the exit point above the roof for indoor installation is brought to code. Is the heater installed inside a shed or equipment room? If so, does the enclosure have the proper sized vents in the proper locations as per heater manufacturer and code? Have they been modified since installation and approval? Correct this problem at once if the vents are undersized or restricted in anyway. If this is a stackless top heater ~ meaning does it have a grate atop the heater ~ make sure the space above and around the heater are to manufacturer's specs and to code. All these scenarios and more will affect the performance of the heater
Another version of this is called flame roll out. Very dangerous situation. You need a qualified swimming pool heater to troubleshoot soon. k
Write or inquire thru that web site for a manual to be sent to you. k
Have you rotated the gas valve knob to "run". Have you turned up the thermostat? Is the pump running? No pump water flow - no heat -- no filtration. Is the filter clean? When was the last time you cleaned the filter? Ken
First off, the thermostat is not a shut off. It is for controlling and maintaining the temp. To shut the heater off you have to use the toggle switch either on the side of the cabinet or the switch inside the cabinet. Some heaters may not have this feature. Alos, your water may be cooler than the lowest reading on that thermostat which may be in the range of 60 degrees or so. If in doubt READ your heater manual. k
Have the thermocouple checked or spillage from down draft and make sure there is free air for proper combustion
Depends on location and heat-up time. Taking into consideration wind and heating demand, I would probably go with a Laars 325 or 400 BTU heater. If high wind is a problem, a Laars 400 LT/LX could be the answer. The larger the heater, the faster the heat up time, and fewer days of waiting for target heating temperatures to occur. And fewer days of heat loss. HM Louisiana You also have to take into consideration the gas supply line size. This dictates and can limit the size of heater. k
My pool guy was just here today and he offered the following suggestions when he fixed my teledyne heater (paraphrased): If the heater isn't getting enough water flow through it, it will stop. If you open up the heater panel on the bottom, there is a round thing on the left with a small round center. There are a few wires coming off of this. This is a safety device that senses if the lines are getting water in the heater unit. If you look at the middle of this knob looking thing there is a slot. He turned the slot (looks like a standard screwdriver slot) counter clockwise (as if to loosen it). That did the job for mine. Also, it could be some sort of clog in a line preventing the heater unit from getting adequate water flow. He warned me NOT TO open the screw thing too much, after all it IS a safety feature. If it doesn;t work don;'t loosen it too much. Also, the thing goes off when I run my Polaris filter. Before you start adjusting something you absolutely know nothing about: Have you cleaned the filter lately? When was the last time the filter was serviced? When was the last time the heater was serviced? That screw looking device is for one specific type of problem and in almost all cases will not apply to your specific heater problem. k
I would suspect you have a heater hose leaking where it enters the cabin through the firewall. It just looks like it is running out of the bell housing.
Most likely one or two of the burner orifices near the pilot light are clogged making the gas travel a distance before lighting. Pull the burner tray and clean it completely. And check for spider webs and other debris in the burners. Check for other gas leaks, and don't use flex lines, flanges, valves, or other fittings inside the heater. On the Series One, check the sidewalls to make sure they are intact.
Do you mean that the heater will not shut down either by turning the thermostat down or turning the switch off. If turning the pump off will not shut down the heater it could possibly be one of the high limits or the gas valve has failed in the open position. If the heater will not fire when calling for heat then one or more components has failed. k
Leaking radiator radiator hose head gasket water pump Heater core thermostat housing
no.....the heater would have to be leaking
There's a bunch, thermostat housing, intake, water pump, heater core, any of the hoses leading to your heater core or radiator, and it could even be one of your temp sensors.