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Why would a faucet have high water pressure when first turned on and then quickly slow down?


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2006-01-18 08:51:35
2006-01-18 08:51:35

Generally this is caused by pressure being built up from the water getting hot in the hot water heater. By code you should have a hot water heater expansion tank on the cold water inlet of the water heater to absorb the added pressure. If this is your problem, the excessive pressure could possibly burst your water heater. The faucet stem or cartridge or washer may be loose or moving and blocking flow.


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If this faucet has a spray hose, turn on the faucet and open the spray hose.This will adjust the diverter in the kitchen faucet to the spray and pressureize the hose.This will allow the faucet to equilize and the sputter will stop if the spray diverter is working. It could be that the diverter part in the faucet is defective.

I bet somewhere in the faucet the installer used a black iron nipple for the spout or shower head. The nipple rust very quickly. A few seconds of water rinses it out. The nipple will start leaking in the future.

Yes, faucet is stressed on the first syllable.

The first syllable is stressed in faucet.

Because hot water is still in the pipes from when you turned on the hot water, and when you turned on the cold faucet it had to let out the hot water first. This means you have a single-pipe sink. Double-pipe sinks have a pipe for hot and a pipe for cold and it blends them as it turns on.

Some faucets use the water pressure to open the seal after it has been released by the handle. It may be that the seal is tight and slow to move after it has been released. One other thing to check, is your water pressure ok at this faucet.

Old house, the pipes fill up with sediment. A 1/2 inch pipe may have a quarter of an inch or less. On some new houses there may be a pressure regulator on the line coming in. Somewhere between where it comes into the house and the first faucet or the water heater, whatever comes first. May just be rust and sediment at the faucet. Take the screen off the faucet and see if it is plugged.

Water pressure, how far the valve is open on the faucet probably should be looked at first. If the hoses are old, you might check for leaks.

The most obvious step to fixing a leaky faucet is to turn off the water supply to the sink. That being said, another "first step" would be to know exactly what type of faucet is to be repaired.

Very often when the water is shut off and turned back on, mineral deposits come loose and plug the screen in the faucet spout. That's the first place to look. It may be in the faucet itself. If neither side works, look at the spout, if it is only one side, check the side that isn't working.

The correct term would be a single hole faucet. You can not find anything about a single hold faucet on google. Single hole faucets are typically not the first choice of faucets.

The pressure drops with altitude. More quickly at first, but more gradually the higher you go. If plotted on a graph, you would get a curve.

First by isolating the water supply

Air in the water lines to the upstairs. Not enough water pressure.

First, you need to determine exactly what is wrong with the faucet. Then you need to turn off the water supply before disassembling.

The first syllable as in faw-sit

It's likely a rusted steel feed pipe and you don't use it often enough to keep the rust buildup flushed out.

if it is a single lever faucet the cartridge needs to be replaced. check the supply valve under the sink first,

First place to check would be the airator screen on the faucet. The little screen where the water pours out of the screen could be plugged with iron or calcium depending on your water supply or plumbing material. The screen is just screwed in and should be able to be unscrewed by hand or gently with a pair of plyers.

First make sure that the hot and cold supply lines (the plumbing) aren't backwards (hot should be on the left as you are facing the faucet) or that someone accidentally ran two hot lines. For the problem to be in the faucet itself you would have to have a single handle faucet. If this is the case the control valve is broken and should be replaced. Three handle Left= Hot Water Flow. Right= Cold Water Flow Center= Controls whether the water comes out the shower head or tub faucet. Two handle Left= Hot Water Flow Right= Cold Water Flow (Diverter Valve is elsewhere if it's a tub/shower) Single handle One handle controls both water pressure and temperature

Buying a new tub faucet that will last longer than a year is expensive. When a faucet begins to leak, instead of rushing out to buy a new one, it is better to try to repair it at home first. This article will explain a quick and easy process that will save the cost of buying a new faucet. First, shut off the main water valve and turn the water supply off. Also turn off the water heater's shut-off valve. After this, open the faucet in order to let out the water pressure built up in the pipes. After it has drained, cover the drain piece with a filter or cloth. Using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the small plastic cap that is located on the top of the handle; under this should be a screw. Unscrew the screw under the cap and pull off the handle. Under this should be a plate cover that is cylinder-shaped, wrapped around the faucet stem. Using a flat-head screwdriver or a chisel, chip away any caulk that is built up around the plate cover. Remove the plate cover and clean off any dirt that is crusted around it using a rag, sprayed with Simple Green. Take off the primary fitting - this is the piece that hold the handle in place, then remove the nut that secures the faucet stem. Take off the stem next. Usually this is possible by rotating it clockwise or whichever way the faucet is turned to turn water pressure on. Clean the stem well; if it is badly corroded, replace it. Remove the washer and o-rings at the end of the stem and replace it with a new washer. After this, reassemble the faucet using reverse order of the steps listed. To find the best deal on parts, buy them online from a hardware warehouse. Some hardware stores charge higher prices for the goods that are needed, but if the leak must be fixed quickly, purchasing the parts at retail price and fixing the tub faucet independently is much cheaper than hiring a plumber.

yes, first they erode and the sediments are transported and deposited and then with time and pressure and heat they are turned into sedimentary rocks

This isn't a Pond question, I moved it to Plumbing. But from what I have learned about plumbing from my many years of pondkeeping, you must have a restriction in your kitchen faucet line. Either the line is turned (partially) off with a valve (under the sink) or you have some kind of crud in the line that is preventing a free-flow of water; scale from old plumbing could do this. When you turn the kitchen faucet off it allows the water pressure from the house line to build back up on the faucet side of the restriction (e.g., between the valve, partially turned off, and the faucet itself.) When you turn the faucet on, this relatively small volume of pressurized water escapes from the faucet, but then it 'stops' since the restriction is blocking the free flow of water as in the rest of the pipes in the house. When you turn it off it allows a few moments to recover the pressure, then when you turn it on you get a spurt of water. And this is assuming the water pressure int he rest of the house is normal. * First look for the valve under the sink and be sure it is all the way on (in line with the pipe or turned all the way counter-clockwise, depending on the kind of valve and assuming it is installed correctly.) * Turn the water on full blast to see if the restriction is still there or will clear by itself. This could fix the problem right there. * If the valve is open and you still have this problem you better call a plumber. Depending on what kind of plumbing you have (copper, PVC, etc.), how far back in the piping the restriction is, and how much you want to learn about do-it-yourself plumbing, this could take a professional to find and fix the exact spot of the restriction. If you can trace the kitchen faucet piping line back to a juncture where it branches off to another line with a faucet that works, at least you will know in what length of the pipe the restriction is likely to be and how accessible it is. If it's anywhere in 20' of pipe and inside walls, this is probably not something you want to fix yourself. Good Fortune!

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