The Related Link shows a transformer inside a metal cabinet, supplied with 120VAC protected by a fuse and the standard neutral connection back to the supply. There is a ground connection from the supply to ground, but there is no ground connection shown for the metal cabinet.
The question asks, if the (fused) hot side of the transformer shorts to the metal cabinet, will the fuse blow?
The answer depends on whether or not the metal cabinet is grounded.
If it is not grounded, as implied in the diagram, then the fuse will not blow, because there is no circuit formed to do so. Additionally, AND MORE CRITICALLY, this would energize the metal cabinet, creating an electrocution hazard.
However, it must be noted that per the NEC (US) and most probably any other country's electrical code, such a metal cabinet MUST be grounded.
IF, AND ONLY IF, the metal cabinet is grounded, then the fuse will blow, due to the additional fact that neutral and ground are connected together at the distribution panel (again, by code), and again, at the service entrance, and this will form a high current circuit sufficient to blow the fuse and prevent an electrocution hazard.
FYI - If I encountered such an ungrounded condition in a metal cabinet, I would do everything in my power to cause the installing electrician to lose his or her license. Additionally, if this caused an electrocution (whether fatal or not) I would sue said electrician for everything they were worth, and I would probably win, even though that would not bring back the person that died. This type of malfeasance should not and cannot be tolerated.
It's the standard Type 'G' 3-pin plug used in the UK for electrical equipment and appliances. It should always contain a cartridge fuse of the right size to match the current or "amperage" drawn by the equipment/appliance it is supplying with power. Standard fuses to fit the plug are available in 13 amp, 5 amp, 3 amp and 1 amp sizes. For more information see the Related Link and the answer to the Related Question shown below.
To protect a circuit, we use a fuse or circuit breaker. The fuse or circuit breaker must always be placed in the lineconductor, never in the neutral conductor. So, if we want to completely isolate a circuit from the supply, we must remove the fuse from the line conductor, and open the link in the neutral conductor. A 'link' is a non-fusible metal break point in the neutral.
The main differences between domestic and industrial fuses are the nominalvoltage and current levels (which require much larger physical dimensions) andtheir fault-current breaking capabilities. Type gG fuse-links are often used for theprotection of motor circuits, which is possible when their characteristics are capableof withstanding the motor-starting current without deterioration.A more recent development has been the adoption by the IEC of a fuse-type gM formotor protection, designed to cover starting, and short-circuit conditions. This type offuse is more popular in some countries than in others, but at the present time theaM fuse in combination with a thermal overload relay is more-widely used.A gM fuse-link, which has a dual rating is characterized by two current values. Thefirst value In denotes both the rated current of the fuse-link and the rated current ofthe fuseholder; the second value Ich denotes the time-current characteristic of thefuse-link as defined by the gates in Tables II, III and VI of IEC 60269-1.These two ratings are separated by a letter which defines the applications.For example: In M Ich denotes a fuse intended to be used for protection ofmotor circuits and having the characteristic G. The first value In corresponds tothe maximum continuous current for the whole fuse and the second value Ichcorresponds to the G characteristic of the fuse link. For further details see note at theend of sub-clause 2.1.An aM fuse-link is characterized by one current value In and time-currentcharacteristic as shown in Figure H14 next page.Important: Some national standards use a gI (industrial) type fuse, similar in all mainessentails to type gG fuses.Type gI fuses should never be used, however, in domestic and similar installations.vu_ld
If you can observe the fusible link it should be open and there should be some charring on the glass. Use an Ohm meter to confirm fuse is blown. If it is zero ohms across the fuse it is not blown.
The interruption capacity of a fuse is the ability of a fuse to stop the current flow on a short circuit condition. On high rupture capacity (HRC) fuses the fuse cartridge has silica sand surrounding the fuse link. When the link blows under a high current so much heat is generated that the silica sand actually turns to glass to extinguish the arc. A dual element fuse is used on motor starting circuits. Their construction inside with two current flow paths allow the high current of a motor start for a short interval of time without blowing.
You are stupid if you put a 30W fuse where it expects a 15W. The meaning of the fuse is to protect the equipment in the network. If the fuse is not the weakest link any longer something else must collapse in case their is a highvoltage peak, a shortcut in the circuit or something else.
Fuse 14 controls the remote central locking and windows - in addition it has a link to the interior lights. The most common fault causing the fuse to blow is the front centre dome lighing console. the cables melt and cause the fuses to blow. please see this link http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/340705/2307643.aspx
fuse
Do you mean a fusable link or in-line fuse? a wire that is broken by a place to insert a fuse, that is designed to "blow" or open in case of a short or grounded circuit, prior to causing a problem the the protected circuit.
The fuse is the weak link in the chain. It has a lower current limit than the rest of the circuit. Should a dangerous over current occur the fuse will 'blow' or burn out, thus protecting the circuit from the over current fault.
There isn't a "fuse" per say, but there is a fusible link. Which is a peice of wire of that a wired fuse in the middle. I have never seen one of these blow, but, anything can happen. More likely thou, your alternator died.
The fuse link is part of the wire that contains it. Unless there are connectors, which is doubtful, you have to change the entire piece of wire. Disconnect the battery and replace the wire. Before you do that, you should find and fix the problem that caused the link to fail in the first place, or it will blow again. Usually, fuse links are used between the battery and alternator, so this sounds like alternator failure.
The fuse you seek is #5 in the fuse box located to the left of the steering column. Lots of Lebaron info via this link http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1298
A fuse is a deliberate weak link which will be blown if there is a power overload. When you blow a fuse, take the blown fuse out and throw it away as you would a blown light bulb, and replace it with another fuse of the same type. * In the old-timey fuse boxes a penny could be substituted for a fuse, but a penny is too strong to be blown, and the next overload will burn the house down.
In a fuse box or it may be a self contained in line fuse.
The add link isn't shown so ( www . motorcraft service . com ) no spaces Click on Owner Guides The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagram ) can be viewed online
The fuse link is part of the wire that contains it. Unless there are connectors, which is doubtful, you have to change the entire piece of wire. Disconnect the battery and replace the wire. Before you do that, you should find and fix the problem that caused the link to fail in the first place, or it will blow again. Usually, fuse links are used between the battery and alternator, so this sounds like alternator failure.