Want this question answered?
Bad connections in the outlet or connector screws or it's feed connections at another oulet. Next time it quits bang on it and bang on the adjoining outlets. If one point causes a flicker - look for the problem there.
A -dim- "hot/neutral reversed" indication means that there is -some- voltage, but less than 120V, on the neutral line, referenced to the safety ground. Ideally, the ground and neutral should be at the -same- potential, but a loose neutral connection "upstream" of this outlet will cause measurable voltage between ground and neutral. No need to swap any wires; just tighten neutral connections at all points (including outlets AND breaker panel) on the same circuit as this outlet. My guess is that whoever pulled the wire swapped the white/black wires from the point prior. Trace back the wire to the previous outlet and check the hook up. Try to swap your white/black line on the outlet and retest. If it checks ok, then the wire have been swapped from the previous point.
You must have some high resistance in the plug or outlet, make sure that all connections are clean and tight, clean off any corrosion or burns on the plug, may have to replace outlet if contacts are burned in outlet. This is a fire hazard.
There are several possibilities: Check the breakers to make certain that none have "tripped". Open the outlet box and verify that there are no loose connections, if that doesn't prove helpful, follow the wiring back to the previous outlet on the circuit and see if THAT one has power. Verify that the wall outlet is not part of a switched circuit. Sometimes wall outlets are designed to be for lighting purposes only, and as such are put on a switch.
Circuit breaker tripping, or non functioning outlet. The neutral and hot can be reversed, or an open ground, and you will have no symptoms. This can only be detected with a circuit tester you plug in to check the wiring.
No, unless it is a three phase motor and you reverse only two of the phases.
Bad connections in the outlet or connector screws or it's feed connections at another oulet. Next time it quits bang on it and bang on the adjoining outlets. If one point causes a flicker - look for the problem there.
Usually swapping the inlet and outlet connections will do this, depending on the design of the motor.
A -dim- "hot/neutral reversed" indication means that there is -some- voltage, but less than 120V, on the neutral line, referenced to the safety ground. Ideally, the ground and neutral should be at the -same- potential, but a loose neutral connection "upstream" of this outlet will cause measurable voltage between ground and neutral. No need to swap any wires; just tighten neutral connections at all points (including outlets AND breaker panel) on the same circuit as this outlet. My guess is that whoever pulled the wire swapped the white/black wires from the point prior. Trace back the wire to the previous outlet and check the hook up. Try to swap your white/black line on the outlet and retest. If it checks ok, then the wire have been swapped from the previous point.
Yes and Very Possible! Bad connections cause heat so the outlet may be defectice. The outlet or the supply line may also not be rated to supply the current (amperage) required by the heater.
You must have some high resistance in the plug or outlet, make sure that all connections are clean and tight, clean off any corrosion or burns on the plug, may have to replace outlet if contacts are burned in outlet. This is a fire hazard.
Could be the outlet, could be an open wire, could be a loose connection. First thing I would do is check that the connections are tight. Then replace the outlet. That leaves the wiring... The connection is probably corroded. Check the plug, if it's black and pitted you probably should replace both the plug and outlet.
A timer is a type of contactor. My answer assumes you do not need an additional contactor besides the timers and the timers are operated by the same circuit as the outlet. Each timer and the outlet need connections to the neutral and grounding conductors of the circuit. For the hot wires, you have to run your hot feed to each of the timers on the "line" side of the contacts. If the timer and the "line" side of the contacts are different connections you will have 2 connections in each timer. Then from the "load" side of the contacts you run wires that connect to the hot side of your outlet. At some point you will splice these together so you have only one hot wire connection to the outlet. Remember that timers, contactors, relays, etc., are simply switches operated by various means. You have the hot feed on one side and the "switch leg" to your load. You also have a control of some kind, and in your case your controls are the timers.
No, but all water will eventually find its way to the ocean through the water cycle via rain and underground connections.
There are several possibilities: Check the breakers to make certain that none have "tripped". Open the outlet box and verify that there are no loose connections, if that doesn't prove helpful, follow the wiring back to the previous outlet on the circuit and see if THAT one has power. Verify that the wall outlet is not part of a switched circuit. Sometimes wall outlets are designed to be for lighting purposes only, and as such are put on a switch.
Circuit breaker tripping, or non functioning outlet. The neutral and hot can be reversed, or an open ground, and you will have no symptoms. This can only be detected with a circuit tester you plug in to check the wiring.
You will not need any special electrical outlet but you have to make sure that the ground/ earth connections are proper and contact are good so that there is no sparking. If your power tool is of high wattage then you will have consider that while choosing cut-offs, safety switches, wiring and connectors.