Definitely not !! it would be dangerous to use 120 volt equipment on a 230 volt supply, it would either blow the fuse or blow up . .
You need a transformer to convert 230 volts to 120 volts, and you need one of the right rating. For a washing machine that might be quite a big transformer. We have 110 volt Transformers for power tools but they are not big enough.
Most likely yes. US 220 volts is produced at 60 cycles, while in Europe it is produced at 50 cycles. These days most appliances are not cycle dependent, so all they care about is voltage. Most European appliances made to run at nominal 220-240 volts will work fine on American nominal 220-240 volt circuits.
Almost all of Europe has 240V between phase and neutral. You will need a wall plug adapter though, and they can differ from country to country.
There is no advantage of every appliance having its own circuit. The modern household has many appliances and to make a separate circuit for each one would be a waste of money. This is the reason that the electrical code requires split receptacles above the kitchen counters. On the average only one or two appliances would be operating at any one given time.That said, the higher amp draw appliances have to have their own circuits. These types of appliances have an amp draw of close to what the circuit can produce. These types of circuits have breakers and wires sized to the amperage load draw of the appliance.Examples of high amperage draw appliances are clothes dryer, oven, range, hot water tank, refrigerator, freezer, microwave oven, furnace and base board heating. All of the small hand appliances can share a circuit without overloading that particular circuit.
Goldilocks would be wearing woolen clothes Bearskins
The place you buy if from may do it for free, if new, or charge a small fee of $50-100.oo or less. If you hire a handy man that could vary. Both appliances come with directions how to hook up. The washer is easier than the dryer. You have a hot and cold line that connects from the washer to the spickets behind the washer, they are marked on the hoses. There is another hose that goes in the back of the washer that goes to the same spot that drains the water out on the spin cycle and a plug. On the dryer there is a plug and the vent hose that goes from the back of the dryer to the vent hole in the floor or wall. Takes less than an hour to do both. This is IF you have hook-ups already in place for a washer and dryer. If not, the costs are going to be a lot more significant. The cost depends on where you are putting the washer and dryer. If plumbing and electrical lines are close by it might run you about $400-500 for everything. (water lines to the washer, drain for the washer, electrical to the dryer and vent for dryer) However, it can be several hundred dollars more if you need to run plumbing and electrical lines significant distances (20 ft or more). To make it the cheapest possible, pick a location where water lines and an electrical box are less than 10 ft away. Also, if you do it yourself, you can save a lot of money and might only spend $100-200 in materials.
The voltage would be the same even if you installed three washing machines. The amp draw is what will change. An automatic washer uses about 120 volts at about 700 watts, so your washer would draw a little less than six amps. It is recommended that it have a dedicated 20 amp circuit. If you install a dryer then the voltage requirement would be about 240.Rate
kettles generally run on alternating current (AC) as do most household appliances. although the heating element can run on either alternating or direct current (ac or dc) as long as the voltage is the same. for example if you were to plug your kettle into your car battery it wouldn't do very much if anything. however if you were to wire ten car batteries in series ( thus creating 120 volts dc) the kettle would heat up as it normally would.
could be fridge,stove,dryer/washer (NOT SURE)
you can't wash clothes in a dish washer because it would not clean the clothes fully, maybe it won't even clean it half way.
No, this is a washer. You would need a seperate dryer to filter the lint off of your clothes.
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It depends on your washer and driers. If I were you I would call the company that made your appliances or call your local repairman.
Clothes will stretch to a point in the washer, so wash the clothes you shrunk. Than when they are done in the washer take them out and stretch them. Pull on the material to make it stretch and don't put it back in the dryer let them air dry.
A steam washer and dryer would be best for dry clean onl clothing.
I would go to Sears and get and HE washer. They use less power and water. Which will save you money in the long run. Plus a front loader gets your clothes cleaner ..
Its preferred to pre-wash or even do this outside with a hose if possible then i would pre-wash and then wash them with like clothes
For the proper laundering of your clothes read the care label. That's usually sewn in at the neckline in the back or on a side seam. If for some reason the care label is missing, cold water would be a good choice. However remember that its not so much the washer that shrinks your clothes, its the dryer. Keep the dryer on low and remove the clothes promptly.
Well since you do not want to go to the laundromat, one suggestion would be to ask a neighbor if you can use their washer and dryer. You could pay them for letting you use it.
You can run your discharge pipe from the washer into a laundry tub with the drain put in. After the wash cycle, the water will discharge from the washer into the laundry tub. Keep the water in there and replace the washer discharge pipe back into the usual drain. Let the washer run it's normal cycle. Take the clothes out and put them in the dryer or on the clothes line. The next step is the tricky part. You have to get a pump of some sort to put the discharged soapy water from the laundry tub back into the washer. This water will still be okay to wash the next set of clothes. I would wash the whites first, though. lol