Usually the red wire is the hot wire, black ground, a couple for speakers (maybe 40 & 1 for antennae.
The motor that raises and lowers the antenna is controlled by a wire which is connected to the power switch in the stock radio. The wire from the antenna itself has nothing to do with raising and lowering the antenna. Touch the wires that were connected to the stock radio to a hot wire and see if the antenna starts to move. If if does, hook that wire to the wire from the new radio which is supposed to control the antenna motor. If there is no such wire, connect the antenna motor wire to the Accessory circut. The antenna will go up whenever the key is turned on. Or, you can get fancy and install a switch for it.
The motor that raises and lowers the antenna is controlled by a wire which is connected to the power switch in the stock radio. The wire from the antenna itself has nothing to do with raising and lowering the antenna. Touch the wires that were connected to the stock radio to a hot wire and see if the antenna starts to move. If if does, hook that wire to the wire from the new radio which is supposed to control the antenna motor. If there is no such wire, connect the antenna motor wire to the Accessory circut. The antenna will go up whenever the key is turned on. Or, you can get fancy and install a switch for it.
The ground wire must remain connected to the box. The frame of the switch, and therefore also the screws, must remain connected to the box as well.
the wires harness has a orange, wire what does this wire splice to when installing a new stereo also the lime green wire and a black with yellow strip what do these also go too
I dont have a wiring schematic in front of me but you are looking for a wire in the old stereo connector that has 12 volts when the key is off, many people use this as their main power wire so that the stereo will work without the key but its not really made for that kind of use, the main power should be connected to the wire that has power only when the key is on.
if you have recently installed a new stereo deck this may be why: there is a wire that dimms and brightens the display on your stock stereo (which is connected to your dash and tail lights) and most after market stereos do not have a place to wire this in, so some time the wire is just pushed back into the dash and it ends up grounding out and blowing the fuse. if this is the situation, pull the stereo back out and make sure that all of the wires that were connected to the stock stereo and now are not connected to the new one, are cut back (just the uninsullated part of the wire, not the entire wire) so that no copper wires are sticking out past the insullation, then cap the ends with wire nuts and wrap elecrical tape around the wire nut and the wire ( since electrical tape streches make sure that you wrap the tape in the same direction you tightened the wire nut, to keep the wire nut from coming loose or falling off, cause since it is in a vehicle there will be quite a bit of vibration.) however if this is not the case and you have not insalled a new stereo, i would try and replace the fuse, and if it blows open again then you have a short some where in the circuit. i hope that this helps you! The tail light assemblies on late-90s Chevrolets have a tendency to turn defective after about 5 or 6 years. This could be your tail light problem.
Make sure the ground wire is connected to metal, and recheck the power source for good connection use connectors not twist method.
The 1999 Subaru stereo wiring color codes are universal. The red wire is the positive wire. The black wire is the ground wire. The green wire is the speaker wire. The white wire is the auxiliary wire.
The wire harness for the stereo is suitable for the stereo power. The "ignition" (ACC) wire that is convenient to use for the stereo/accessories is the power wire for the fan control knob. The fan control only gets power in "accessories" or "on" therefore is as good as a remote. __==__-- -- -- ---- -- -- -----^ (Power pin, looking at the front of the fan control plug) (To be sure you are using the right wire (before cutting it), insert accessory wire into the front of plug and see if the stereo works with the key in the ACC position.)
pull out the old one put in the new one, wire to wire color coated. power it izup
for the power wire get a test light, but for the speakers take a AA battery connect one end to one matching wire, and the other wire to the other end of the battery, if you listen carefully you should hear feedback from the appropriate speaker, mark the wires and continue with the rest, most vehicles require a new switched power wire to be connected simply run wire from your [radio] fuse in your fuse box to the switched wire on your new deck. alternatively check at a local car stereo dealer and see if they have an adapter plug that would connect your old wiring harness to your new deck. for the power wire get a test light, but for the speakers take a AA battery connect one end to one matching wire, and the other wire to the other end of the battery, if you listen carefully you should hear feedback from the appropriate speaker, mark the wires and continue with the rest, most vehicles require a new switched power wire to be connected simply run wire from your [radio] fuse in your fuse box to the switched wire on your new deck. alternatively check at a local car stereo dealer and see if they have an adapter plug that would connect your old wiring harness to your new deck.
Check the fuses, remote wire, and power wire first of all. If that doesn't work you might have wires loose somewhere.