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The hair care needs of women of African descent are unique. In its natural state, black hair is tightly coiled, making it difficult for the scalp’s natural oil (called sebum) to be distributed down the hair’s shaft. Because of this, African-American hair tends to be dry unless healthy hair care techniques are put into practice.

The majority of black women in the US chemically straighten their hair using a product known as a relaxer. Relaxers break the hair’s bonds, causing curls to straighten. This weakens hair, so special care should be taken of relaxed hair. Hair should be relaxed no more often than every six to eight weeks. Relaxing more often than this increases the risk of overlapping and accidentally relaxing previously-relaxed hair. This causes damage and increases the possibility of hair loss.

Women who choose to wear their hair without chemical straighteners are referred to as naturals. Maintaining healthy natural hair is often easier than keeping relaxed hair healthy, but there are still healthy hair care practices to which one must adhere. Because black women have very curly hair, with curls typically ranging in size from smaller than a pen spring to approximately the size of sidewalk chalk, hair should not be combed when dry. Combing natural hair when it is dry is often an open invitation to frizz and breakage. It is best to only comb naturally curly hair when it is wet and drenched in conditioner.

Whether relaxed or natural, black women should choose moisturizing shampoos and conditioners. Ones that specify they are for dry, color-treated, or curly hair work well. How frequently hair is washed is an individual decision. Typically, washing hair daily is not a wise decision whether the hair is relaxed or natural, because it is drying and strips the hair of its natural oils. However, many women with natural hair choose to wash their hair daily with conditioner only. This is moisturizing and does not dry the hair. Shampoo should be used one or twice per week to remove buildup. A water-based moisturizer should be applied daily. Many choose to seal in the moisture with an oil, such as olive or coconut oil.

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