It goes up.
Six quarts is very good starting point. Should be right on the money.
I dont know specifically but follow the upper radiator hose to engine block, it will be very close to this point.
No heat, engine doesn't cool down properly, after the engine warms up to a point where the thermostat should open up, the coolant lines don't have a fairly uniform temperature throughout.
Hi. I replaced my thermostat twice - here is a word of caution: only use the thermostat from the Chevy dealership. I bought one from Autozone and it kept giving me the check engine light because the temp did not get high enough. I replaced it with the Chevy one and it worked perfectly from that point on - no more check engine light.As for the labor time, I'd suggest investing in a Chilton book that shows you how to do it. You have to remove the alternator in order to get to the thermostat (why did they put the thermostat on the bottom of the engine!?!?!) All in all it took me about 3 hours the first time and about 2 1/2 the second time - and I am just your average guy that doesn't mind getting his hands dirty in my garage.Hope that helps!
At the point where the upper radiator hose clamps to the engine is the thermostat housing. Inside is the thermostat.
The set point theory suggests that an individual's weight is regulated by an internal thermostat that resists changes in weight, attempting to maintain a particular range. This set point can shift due to factors like genetics, environment, and dieting history, but the concept is debated among researchers.
go to mayor office, to the thermostat, use hairdryer and thermometer, heat mirror to get the dew point, set the thermostat 5 C above the dew point
Although Chevrolet has produced a pickup truck since 1918, the truck never received a formal name until 1999 at which point it was dubbed the Silverado. ("Silverado" was formerly the name of a trim level that dated back to the 1965.) so it depends on if you are asking when the truck was called Silverado or when a trim level was called Silverado?
There is no point in changing yourself for someone else. Unless you change for yourself the change will never stick.
As with any thermostat it is based on where the set point is on the temperature scale. On hot water tanks the thermostat opens the element circuit when the set point temperature is reached. For example the set point should be around 135 degrees F. When cold water enters the tank, the thermostat closes due to sensing a temperature lower than the set point is set at. When the water heats up to 135 degrees the thermostat open because the set point is reached.To test the thermostat shut the power off at the distribution panel for the hot water tank. To do this test the water in the tank should be up to temperature. Remove the wires from the thermostat that is to be tested. Make a diagram of how the wires were connected. Using a continuity tester (ohm meter works fine) place the leads across the terminals where the wires were connected. If there is no reading then the set point is satisfied and the circuit is open. Leaving the tester leads on the terminals, with a screw driver raise the set point to a higher value. The meter should now show continuity between the terminals. Turn the set point down and the terminal reading should open. If this is happening then that thermostat is operating fine. Reposition the thermostat to the original set point. If you are working on the top thermostat now do the same to the bottom thermostat to see if it is working also.See related link below.
The factory spec it 195 degrees. It is at that point that the engine computer is expecting it to run, and it will be most efficient. That assumes that the engine is equipped with a 195 degree thermostat to get it to run at that temperature. I have a 1986 that has no thermostat and it commonly runs at 140 degrees, probably not warm enough to suit the computer.
Normally the thermostat is located at the point where the upper radiator hoses connects to the engine.